This text is part of the special Pleasures notebook
Grab while there’s some left
Lomond “SSV” 2022, Cape Agulhas, South Africa ($21.75 – 15170205)
Sauvignon and Sémillon combine with Viognier to celebrate a dry white with character, both smoky and spicy, whose citrus nuances constitute the fresh and fruity aromatic framework. It’s simple, but it’s good. (5) **1/2
Albariño 2022, Alba de Vetus, Rias Baixas, Spain ($23.85 – 14512752)
Like Aligoté, Burgundy melon and certain Grüner Veltliner, the Albariño grape variety is one of those that invites, titillates, annoys, tickles and perks up any palate that has fallen asleep yawning with weariness. A light and very dry spring wine, to be served on plump spring rolls, with savory nuances of lime and chalk that opens onto something that resembles a small moment of simple happiness. Which is no small feat in these changing times. (5) ***
Shiraz 2021, Hither&Yon, McLaren Valley, Australia ($25.05 – 15175081)
The label is magnificent. Is this a reason to continue? Yes, if you like voluptuous and concentrated Syrah, fresh, suave and with notes of violets, eucalyptus and black olives perfectly integrated with the softness of rich and strong tannins pleasant on the palate. All that remains is to simmer the emu or kangaroo so as not to be disoriented. (5) © ***
Fleurie 2021, Jean-Paul Brun, Beaujolais, France ($26.90 – 12184353)
We sense here the difficult vintage, a vintage which does not give itself, which seems to hesitate between the tree and the bark, between the fruit and the more vegetal undergrowth. For the moment, the tannins which, without being dominant, impose themselves, highlighted by the freshness. Everything, of perfect integrity, will flow more serenely with two or three years in the bottle, with poultry with morels for example. (5) © ***
Pinot noir 2020, Luna Estate, New Zealand ($27.90 – 15163380)
There is of course here an impression of place, of place, of microcosm which emerges, but also a perception of the style of clone used. This Pinot has a nose, yes, of cherry, without however delving into other more intimate nuances, suppleness, freshness and enough density to delight the lover of the famous grape variety. And I know some! Serve chilled over a chicken salad. (5) ***
Vacqueyras 2019, Domaine Miramont, Rhône, France ($28.65 – 15168201)
The Olivier Bres and Michel Chassillan tandem looked at the cradle of this Miramont vintage where excellent Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre are presented in a setting that is more reminiscent of the film Feast by Marco Ferreri that Babette’s feast from director Gabriel Axel. Not because it lacks refinement, but because it serves the main course with a generosity and fruity density that leaves your palate nourished down to the smallest crevices. A full-bodied, powerful, substantial, warm and comforting red that invites an animal protein to further enhance it. (5+) © ***
Sauvignon 2022, Brancaia, Tuscany, Italy ($28.70 – 15199737)
Barbara Widmer’s Sauvignon Blanc charms with its discretion. Without fanfare in the execution, but a subtle approach, one note at a time, muffled like a Chopin aria. An organic dry white with integrity and precision, light in tone, both floral and citrusy, flowing on a fine and tactile frame. Sauvignons of this caliber are rare in Tuscany. (5) ***
Pouilly-Fumé 2021, Comte Henry D’Assay, Loire, France ($35 – 14961929)
This very dry smoky white, terribly dry even, is endowed with such a tonic power of persuasion that it will convince a fresh oyster to open of its own accord as the mineral tension it has will convince it that any resistance is futile here. Nothing too enveloped in terms of texture, rather the sharp and pointed blade of a knife which hits the heart of a bright and bursting fruitiness. It is an understatement to say that the 2021 vintage is not stuck in the flowers of the carpet. (5+) ***
Riesling “Kaefferkopf” 2020, Meyer-Fonné, Alsace, France ($53 — 14008724)
Behind the village of Ammerschwihr, the multiplicity of plots of this grand cru with granite and limestone subsoils exposed to the east gives this organic dry white not only a sustained richness of fruit due to this beautiful sunny vintage, but subtly places the wine under a tension which gives it a lot of salinity, sapidity and length. Nose of flint and ripe lemon on a background of very light hydrocarbons. If you have a thing for shellfish, the way is clear! (5+) © ***1/2
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