French Polynesia | The islands of 1000 delights

In the middle of the Pacific, the Society and Tuamotu archipelagos, in French Polynesia, are full of attractions and activities on land and sea. But there’s nothing like whetting your taste buds to make your trip even more enjoyable! Spotlight on tasty and fragrant experiences from these islands.

Island of Tahiti-Nui: tuna in the spotlight

It’s better to get up early on Sunday to enjoy the Papeete market, more bustling with life than during the week. An incredible variety of tropical fruits and fish are sold there, but bluefin tuna is the king of the stalls. Its very affordable price will quickly make it the lord of your table, if you have accommodation with a kitchen or barbecue.

It is easy in one day to tour the island, rich in beaches and exuberant nature. On the west coast, a stop for lunch is a must at Papara beach where surfers and small families mingle. Snack Taharu’u Beach is well known to regulars. There you can taste delicious freshly caught fish, including the Tahitians’ favorite: the salmon of the Gods, with pink flesh.

A trip to Tahiti-Iti: chestnuts and surfing

Between kilometers 55 and 60 of the Tahiti-Nui coastal road, reach the wild Tahiti-Iti peninsula. The left road leads to the remote village of Tautira. At the entrance, a woman sells passers-by the contents of her pressure cooker: a few bites of boiled mape almond, a Polynesian chestnut with pasty, sweet flesh.

On the west side of the peninsula, we reach beautiful beaches, but especially Teahupoo, a village best known for its internationally renowned tubular wave which attracts surfers.

Back on Tahiti-Nui, the Fromagère de Tahiti sells the only cheeses on the island in Taravao, of which the Saint-Tahitien, refined with white rum, the Tomme du Vent with papaya pepper or pink berries from the Marquesas, and a fresh cheese with grapefruit confit!

By the east coast of Tahiti-Nui, after “obligatory” stops at Trou du Souffleur and the Trois Cascades de Faarumai, it will not be very difficult to find a restaurant serving chevrettes, freshwater shrimp caught at night in the river. .

Rangiroa Atoll: Outdoor Feast

By plane from Tahiti, you can clearly see the atoll which stretches in the shape of a ring for 80 km, with 240 motus (islets of coral sand) surrounding a blue lagoon of some 1500 km^⁠2, the largest in the Tuamotu archipelago… and in the world! It reveals its pink sands on a nautical excursion from the main island. In the clear water there are friendly black-tipped sharks which are easily approached by diving with apnea.

Landing on an islet of pink sand is followed by a walk in the water to another island, unapproachable by boat. A Polynesian “picnic” is served there. As an aperitif, freshly cut coconut is followed by coconut bread spread with a delicate “foie gras de la mer”, the inner substance of coconut crab. Grilled chicken is cooked on the barbecue, while an appetizing salad of raw tuna with coconut milk and a large dish of crab legs and claws are circulated.

Another day, we will leave by boat to reach Reef Island which owes its name to a barrier of old corals emerging from the crystal clear waters. It will be good to swim in the natural pools which have been formed in the hollow of these coral masses. We will still set the table on an island for another meal with flavors of the sea, but it is the sticks of freshly cut hearts of palm, from young trees, that will be the prize of the day! Far from canned hearts of palm, these are as crunchy as possible, revealing a slightly sweet taste.

Drink coral wine

Improbable, but true: on one of the many motus of Rangiroa vines grow. At aperitif time on the main island, the Cave de Rangiroa offers a tasting of “Tahiti wines” unique in the world. The vine stocks have been growing on the coral soil of the motu for almost 30 years. In the cellar, we taste with delight several white, red and rosé wines from the Carignan, Muscat, Grenache and Italia grape varieties. The moment is precious when we know that almost all of the production (40,000 liters per year) is not sold outside Polynesia.

Islands of Moorea and Tahaa: tropical fruit paradise

The closest island to Tahiti attracts beach and diving enthusiasts. In the mountainous center of the island, a road leads to a splendid viewpoint overlooking the Opunohu valley and its fruit fields.

The visit to the agricultural high school of Moorea offers a nice overview of the crops of pineapples, grapefruits, papayas and lemons, some of the most succulent Polynesian fruits. What’s better than eating them on site, at the store? Good fresh juices, milkshakes and ice creams are yours, plus some jams to take away.

Easy to access by sea shuttle, the quiet island of Tahaa is nicknamed “vanilla island”. If the lagoon is renowned for the cultivation of black pearls, the land is just as renowned for the cultivation of vanilla. On a guided excursion with Vanilla Tours, from July to September, we visit a vanilla plantation in full bloom. Their orchids produce the famous pods which, after long drying and maturation, reveal the full aromatic potential of Tahitian vanilla.

Bora-Bora Island: Fafa chicken with firi firi

If Bora Bora makes you dream with its alignment of motus and luxurious bungalows on stilts overlooking a superb lagoon, there is no need to spend a fortune to appreciate it. Go to the island itself, with relief dominated by Mount Otemanu.

The 32 kilometer tour of the island is best done by bike or scooter. A host of restaurants offer the opportunity to taste or re-taste Polynesian specialties such as Tahitian-style raw fish, Fafa chicken (marinated in coconut milk, with spinach), pork coconut bread sandwich and firi firi (coconut milk fritters). By staying in a pension with a kitchen, it is also easy to obtain some nice tuna fillets inexpensively from a local fisherman and cook them as you wish.