More than five years after opening Battuto, a highly prized Italian trattoria in the capital, chef Guillaume St-Pierre is doing it again with Melba, a modern French cuisine restaurant, neither bistro nor gastro, which will welcome its first guests towards the end of the year. summer, in the Saint-Sauveur district.
From the outset, Guillaume St-Pierre sets the table: the Melba is not a Battuto number two. This new project, he carries it with the chefs Alexandra Roy and Charles Provencher-Proulx, who are, like Paul Croteau and Pascal Bussières, of the Battuto, friends. Added to the trio is an unexpectedly large catch: sommelier Marc Lamarre, whose work over the last twenty years, notably at Le Clocher penché, has been awarded at the Lauriers de la Gastronomie gala.
“It’s not badly the most beautiful thing that could have happened to us, drops Guillaume St-Pierre, all smiles. We couldn’t have found a better player than him. Marc understands the importance of service and the wine list. We feel extremely lucky to have him with us. “And us to have you,” adds Alexandra Roy. Charles Provencher-Proulx nods. ” What does it do ? Eleven years we’ve known each other? It goes back a long way! »
Sitting in Durocher Park, just in front of their new address, the three colleagues throw flowers at each other. There is joy in the air. And she is contagious. It must be said that the whole project takes on an aura of simplicity: a blend of respect, talents and an alignment of stars worthy of the views guy.
After traveling from Quebec City to Montreal to France, notably to officiate at the Lucas Carton in Paris, the Roy-Provencher-Proulx couple felt that the time had come to return to the capital and put their learning and skills to good use. discoveries for people here.
Meanwhile, while the Battuto was sold out months in advance, Guillaume St-Pierre was already simmering his next project. “There are so many ideas that went through my head! On a trip to Portugal, I thought that opening a small Portuguese restaurant would be nice! And when I eat Spanish cuisine at Bar Isabel in Toronto, I find it so much fun! »
When the friends met again, opening a French restaurant finally became a common dream. Gradually, things got under way. “It’s a project that is mature, they explain. The pandemic has given us time to think about it and inspires us even more confidence in the rendering. »
The two years in France were pivotal for Alexandra Roy and Charles Provencher-Proulx, who forged a culinary identity there. Identity that Mr. St-Pierre was able to taste during the two seasons of La bonne étoile, an ephemeral summer restaurant in the Old Port of Quebec.
Dishes to share
Together they will create modern French cuisine. The menu will consist of dishes to share so that guests can taste several compositions during the same meal. There will also be desserts, signed by Alexandra Roy – who is not only a pastry chef, let’s specify.
Small distinctive element: an appetizer section will offer bites for the aperitif. A nod to the famous canape on Melba toast, which will be embodied in different forms, such as gougères with Comté cheese. “Having an aperitif is something we did a lot in France,” says Mme Roy. Having a drink, snacking a little, we think that’s really important and it gives people time to soak up the decor. »
Redo the classics, very little for them. Instead, they intend to draw from the vast repertoire and sublimate the flavors of each region. “We are moving away from the classic bistro and the gourmet. We want to be between the two, to remain accessible financially and tastefully and to work with unique products that make you travel. People will say: “It’s so interesting to have worked black pudding in such a way.” Or: “Ah, they have barbajuans on the menu, what is it?” », Illustrates Guillaume St-Pierre.
His partner agrees. “There will be combinations of tastes that will be surprising. These are things that we have experienced in France and which have not yet really transposed to North America. »
sweet atmosphere
The place unearthed in the Saint-Sauveur district will have 36 places. Apparatus architecture is responsible for creating a soft and warm atmosphere, while Criterium takes care of the visual identity. Ash, porcelain, shades of pink, terracotta, a long bench, a central island: the various elements chosen bring out the finesse that will be embodied in the plate. The trio kept the back space to install a semi-open kitchen. “We don’t rule out the option of dishes where we just pour a little something on the plate. It’s still fun to have contact with the customer,” says Guillaume St-Pierre.
A sign of the maturity and phlegm emanating from the Melba team, the restaurant will be open for dinner, Monday to Friday. “We’re trying that. We want to give ourselves a quality of life. We want people to follow us there. And if they want to eat out on Saturday, well, there are plenty of good places in town! adds Mr. St-Pierre, specifying that he takes as much pleasure in supervising the creation of the Melba as he does in developing the Battuto. “I’m not leaving, it’s going on. I want both restaurants [grandissent] good. »
When it’s time to leave, the accomplices admit to being impatient and happy at the same time to make the opening coincide with harvest time. And Alexandra Roy concludes: “Who knows, maybe I can make a Melba peach! »