It is now official. ANSES “confirms the existence of an association between the risk of colorectal cancer and exposure to nitrates and nitrites”in a report (PDF) published Tuesday, July 12 after several months of work. Nitrates and nitrites are used in particular in charcuterie. In the process, the government announced a “action plan“for the fall, aiming to “limit to what is strictly necessary” their usage “in food products”.
Why are these substances carcinogenic? What to replace them with? Franceinfo deciphers the results and consequences of this study.
1Nitrates and nitrites, what are they?
Nitrates and nitrites are chemical compounds naturally present in soils, via the nitrogen cycle, and therefore in our food. Their concentration can be reinforced by agricultural activities (spreading of mineral fertilizers, livestock effluents) and the discharge of water rich in nitrates linked to certain industrial activities (slaughterhouses, dairies-cheese factories, chemical and parachemical industry, paper industry). They are also present in vegetables, such as salads and spinach.
Nitrates and nitrites are also used as food additives – under the names of E249, E250, E251, E252 – for their antioxidant and antimicrobial properties mainly in deli meats and processed meats. Historically, pork butchers have used these components to extend the shelf life of products and prevent the development of pathogenic bacteria that cause botulism in particular, a serious neurological condition that has been largely forgotten due to health progress. These are also the components that give the ham its pink color, which is naturally grey.
2Why are they carcinogenic?
When ingested, nitrates and nitrites are known to cause the formation of nitroso compounds, some of which are carcinogenic and genotoxic for humans, explains ANSES. The agency specifies that it has analyzed the scientific publications published on the subject since 2017 and confirms the existence of an association between the risk of colorectal cancer and exposure to nitrites and/or nitrates, whether by consuming meat. transformed or by drinking water (mainly from the tap).
ANSES’s analysis “joins the classification of the International Agency for Research on Cancer” of the World Health Organization (WHO), which in 2015 classified processed meat, especially cold cuts, as carcinogenic.
Other cancer risks are suspected, but the available data do not allow, to date, to conclude the existence of a causal link, specifies ANSES, recommending to continue research in this field.
3What are the quantities consumed and recommended?
The government recalls that in France, the charcuterie sectors are already below the thresholds authorized at European level, with 120 mg per kilogram, against 150 mg in the EU. “We are at 100 milligrams, so we are already very well below the ceiling set by Europe”even provides on franceinfo Bernard Vallat, president of the French Federation of industrial charcutiers caterers (FICT), registered in the register of interest representatives, which lists lobbies in France.
However, ANSES notes a paradox: the existence of a link between the consumption of processed meats and the risk of cancer, even though “acceptable daily intake” (ADI) of 150 grams of charcuterie per week in France, are respected. The agency gives two possible explanations.
The first: the ADIs are “defined separately for each of these substances, whereas the biochemical mechanisms involved constitute a series of transformations towards nitrosated compounds”. In our mouth, under the effect of bacterial enzymes, ingested nitrates are transformed into nitrites.
The second: it is necessary to add to the nitrates present in the additives those consumed naturally via their presence in the soil, plants and water, and whose concentration is reinforced by agricultural and industrial activities. ANSES therefore recommends continuing research, to “establish the toxicological reference value taking into account co-exposure” to additives.
4Should we do without it in charcuterie?
ANSES “recommends reducing the exposure of the population to nitrates and nitrites by proactive measures by limiting exposure through food”. A few hours after the publication of this notice, the government announced a “action plan” aimed at reducing or eliminating the use of nitro additives “in all food products where possible without health impact”, according to a press release from the Ministries of Health and Agriculture. Even before the government’s announcement, the Foodwatch association, the League against cancer and the Yuka application had called on the public authorities to “taking responsibility” and “to ban these additives”.
However, this is not what ANSES recommends. In its report, it considers it possible to go below the current authorized limit in processed meats, “as low as reasonably possible”while taking care of the balance between “risk and health protection”. The agency points out that nitrate and nitrite-based additives help fight against botulism but also other diseases such as salmonellosis and listeriosis.
“All countries in the world recommend the use of nitrites, without exception”, defends Bernard Vallat, whose organization is opposed to the elimination of nitrites in charcuterie. “We know that by eliminating nitrites and nitrates in the manufacture of sausages, which is an emblematic product of France, it would be very difficult, at the technical level, to produce sausages of the quality of those which are today started”, he adds on franceinfo. However, it ensures that professionals register “in a permanent reduction trajectory” the use of nitrates and nitrites.
5Can they be replaced?
ANSES issues several recommendations to reduce nitrate and nitrite thresholds in charcuterie. For cooked ham, she recommends shortening the use-by date. For dry-cured ham, the agency suggests strict control of the salt level and temperature during the salting, resting and curing stages of the product.
While major manufacturers have already launched ranges of ham labeled “nitrite-free”, ANSES warns against alternatives based on “plant extracts” or “vegetable broths”. “This does not constitute a real alternative insofar as (these substituents) naturally contain nitrates which, under the effect of bacteria, are converted into nitrites, she points out. These so-called ‘no added nitrite’ or ‘zero nitrite’ products therefore contain hidden nitrates and nitrites”.
“The consumer must eat less charcuterie, but he must eat good: good pork, but not junk!”, considers on franceinfo Richard Ramos, deputy of Loiret, author of a bill aimed at banning nitrates and nitrites. Pending the government’s “action plan” in the fall, which aims to reduce the addition of nitro additives in food products, ANSES advises continuing to limit its consumption of charcuterie to 150 grams per week and calls to have a diversified diet.