Six years after tests in a garage in Villeray, the salmonids of the Opercule project were finally fished for the first time this week. Aboard La roue libre delivery bikes, some 135 Arctic char made their way from the Centrale agricole to various restaurants in the city.
Foxy, Lawrence, Montreal Plaza, these are some of the addresses where these archi-local fish will be served. After a year of sustained production, David Dupaul-Chicoine and Nicolas Paquin, the founders of this urban fish farm — the first in Quebec — are proud to have the support of chefs who support their vision. “Like us, they see the ecological aspect of local production. They are also happy to have a direct link with the producer. This is quite rare in fish farming, says David Dupaul-Chicoine, who has been passionate about agriculture and aquaculture since his twenties. The comment we receive most often is how fresh our fish is and how delicate the flesh is. To be supported by restaurants like these is very gratifying! At times, we are in the fish farm watching what is happening and we realize: “OK! Did we do that?” (laughs) He estimates that between 25 and 30 tonnes of fish weighing between 600 g and 1.5 kg will be delivered annually.
Unusual and unprecedented, the idea of raising Arctic char in the heart of the city quickly intrigued chefs John Winter Russell (Candide) and François Nadon (Bouillon Bilk) who were the first to test and comment on the trials carried out in a basin installed in the garage of David Dupaul-Chicoine.
“We discussed the varieties of salmonids, the weight of the catch, the profitability and the freshness which is longer, relates Mr. Nadon. Like many restaurants, we like to help new projects. And for us, that of Opercule is a beautiful one. Having a local supply that respects the environment, that’s why we encourage it. The chef specifies that this product also responds to a demand from customers who like to know where food comes from.
From egg to table
While they were studying aquaculture in the Gaspé — where fish are also raised in ponds — the future partners naturally considered fish farming in an urban environment. A look at environmental standards, particularly for the health of watersheds, has restricted spaces around Montreal. In the end, it was right in the center of the island, at the Parc-Extension Agricultural Centre, that the location turned out to be ideal. In addition to being close to a large number of consumers, it allows fish to be delivered by bicycle to reduce the carbon footprint.
The environment being one of their priorities, the duo behind Opercule has implemented the first breeding system with intensive water recirculation, from the egg to the catch of the fish. Production therefore uses much less water, but requires an imposing filtration system that rejects excrement in addition to injecting oxygen. A section of the filters is made up of bacteria grown to oxidize ammonia. In comparison with traditional production, 100 to 200 times less water will be used.
Another specificity, the production of salmonids started with the production of eggs in the basins so that they are free of diseases. “It was a bit crazy, but we did it! ” is still surprised the 33-year-old entrepreneur. The idea, “complex to explain to the government”, was able to seduce thanks to a solid business plan. “Getting the permits was the most difficult step. The last in the running, that of transformation, will allow Opercule to carry out the various manipulations necessary for the sale without going through another company. For David Dupaul-Chicoine, this is a sign that he can really move on to marketing. “The pools are full! he enthuses, already foreseeing what’s to come: the sale of Arctic char in the surrounding small grocery stores and fishmongers.
Opercule will share the underside of its project at Montréal en Lumière, Saturday February 18 from 5 p.m. at Quartier Gourmand, Place des Arts