While Americans have been brewing pumpkin beer for over 200 years, it was back in fashion among our neighbors to the south a decade ago, in response to the supply of sweet and spicy drinks served there. fall in coffee chains. Some local brewers have followed the trend with festive and comforting themed beers, which differ from Christmas beers, which are heavier, sweeter and darker.
“When I started brewing at home 10 years ago, I had the chance to taste several beers from the western United States thanks to a friend who lived in Seattle,” recalls Michael D’Ornellas. , founder of the Montreal microbrewery 4 Origines. “So I was able to discover a lot of pumpkin beers, so much so that I have always liked to brew this type of beer, I am always excited to make it! ”
Since 2018, the Pointe-Saint-Charles neighborhood brewery has been offering its Knightmare, a pumpkin porter whose recipe is inspired by a beer tasted at the time by Mr. D’Ornellas. The 4 Origines team added a second seasonal brew last year to mark autumn and Halloween with Bon Jack, an ale with pumpkin and spices. This year, it’s the turn of the Latte, which stands out for the addition of coffee, lactose and vanilla in addition to spices and pumpkin puree, it goes without saying.
“The demand was such that we should have doubled its production,” says the brewer, who told us in passing the very imminent opening of a new factory in Dorval, new facilities that will eventually increase tenfold. the brewing volume of 4 Origines, in particular in order to brew the Latte again, because we have been confirmed that it will be back next year. “It’s going to become an annual seasonal beer, like Knightmare. ”
A tradition
The popular Ale-Ô-Ween, brewed at Trèfle Noir since 2013, also returns each fall by popular demand.
There was a big buzz in the United States at the time with Thanksgiving, I took up the trend by modifying it up to date, from a base of double Belgian beer, but with mash and pumpkin pie spice.
Alexandre Groulx, brewer and owner of Trèfle Noir
“Every year, I tell myself it’s the last year because it’s a style shunned for the rest of the year. But people like it, I get hounded every time in September! ”
Like the American brewers of the 18th centurye century, Alexandre Groulx uses mashed pumpkin at the start of the brewing process. He noticed over time that the flesh of the large cucurbitaceae mainly brings texture to the brew. “I tried almost everything with the pumpkin, I broiled it, roasted it with brown sugar, before finally mashing it, only to find that at the end of the day it didn’t change much. – something to taste! He adds, laughing.
Comfort
“When the cold arrives, we want to get together and these are precisely comforting beers,” says Samuel Lamothe, brewer at the Forge du Malt, who offers Argouille, a season with pumpkin and l ‘sea buckthorn. “If the pumpkin taste is not so present, the placebo effect is doing its job, it puts us in the mood for Halloween! ”
It is precisely this atmosphere that the 4 Origines brewery wants to maintain by returning next year with its Pumpkin Fest, a fall festival canceled this year and last year because of the pandemic. “It’s a celebration of pumpkin beers, with daily activities, quizzes, artists, pumpkin pastries cooked by local bakeries,” says D’Ornellas. Next year, in fact, we want to organize something super festive by associating Oktoberfest with Pumpkin Fest! »That promises!
Consult the website of the 4 Origines Microbrewery Consult the website of the Trèfle Noir Microbrewery Consult the website of my Microbrewery La Forge du Malt
Selection of the moment
Ale-Ô-Ween
PHOTO MARTIN CHAMBERLAND, THE PRESS
Ale-Ô-Ween, from Black Clover
Orange and cloudy, this beer announces its colors with a deliberate nose that releases aromas of cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves. In the mouth, the dosage of spices, refined over the years, goes well with sweetness, the experience is supple, but does not linger. She does not try to hide her origins as a Belgian double, asserting a good overall balance, despite an alcohol level to match. As for the pumpkin, it asserts itself on the finish when the beer reaches its ideal temperature, around 9 degrees.
Black Clover. 7% alc./vol. 355 ml.
Latte
PHOTO MARTIN CHAMBERLAND, THE PRESS
Latte, from 4 origins
We brewed this beer with Starbucks Pumpkin Latte in mind, and we can see why. We taste the gingerbread and the pumpkin pie, but the whole work takes advantage of the bitterness brought by the addition of coffee beans. Dry on the palate despite the silky character of the lactose and a subtle touch of vanilla which stretches out on the finish as if it were a chai latte, it is overall very balanced.
4 Origins. 5.2% alc./vol. 473 ml.
Stoutbucks
PHOTO MARTIN CHAMBERLAND, THE PRESS
Stoutbucks, Black and White
The artisans of the small Saint-Eustache brewery also had the spicy pumpkin latte in mind when it came time to brew Stoutbucks. The malt used here is more roasted, the beer is brown, almost opaque, silky and enveloping in the mouth, the presence of lactose is evident. But it is the coffee that we taste, a pleasant sensation that stretches in the mouth on a finish of roasted butternut squash enhanced with a hint of ginger, contributing to the beautiful balance of this beer brewed in collaboration with the Center d interpretation of the Saint-Joseph-du-Lac squash.
Black and White. 7% alc./vol. 500 ml.
Argouille
PHOTO MARTIN CHAMBERLAND, THE PRESS
Argouille, from La Forge du Malt
Seasonal type beer brewed this year with a new hybrid yeast. Orange and cloudy color, with a discreet nose of roasted squash. Bursts of vanilla and nutmeg come early in the mouth, but fade when the acidity of the sea buckthorn takes over. The pumpkin puree brings a velvety texture to the whole, which however remains light and accessible. Pleasant without being remarkable.
La Forge du Malt. 5.2% alc./vol. 473 ml.