This text is part of the special book Plaisirs
If ciders have found their place more on the shelves of merchants and in the hearts of Quebecers in recent years, it is the turn of farm ciders to want to seduce. But what are they exactly?
The communication work of Quebec cider producers and their association has borne fruit: between 2016 and 2021, cider consumption per capita has almost doubled, from 0.4 liters to 0.73 liters per year. And in grocery stores, at specialty retailers, at the SAQ and in restaurants and bars, ciders have taken their place. That’s not counting the visits made directly to the province’s cider houses, which alone account for a quarter of annual cider sales.
On the labels of these bottles, there are several terms: “traditional”, “ice”, “still”, “sparkling”, “fire”, “artisanal”, and now… “farmer”.
A cider what?
“A farm cider is a cider for which organic apples have been used and for which the yeasts which are naturally found on the fruit have been left to ferment. But above all, to have a farmhouse cider, the apples used must be produced by the person who makes the cider, which allows quality control. Farmer cider is a cider made by farmers above all! says Marc-Antoine Arsenault-Chiasson, who produces this year with his wife, Audrey-Anne Lussier, his second cuvée of farm ciders in Farnham, in the Eastern Townships. “There isn’t really an official definition, but it’s our definition! adds the co-owner of the Equinoxe cider farm.
Catherine St-Georges, executive director of the Quebec Cider Producers Association, admits the terms used in the industry can be vague. “There are new products that have come onto the market over the past few years. There are terms to define them, but they are not framed. We plan to review the nomenclature so that producers agree and consumers find their way around, but this is work that can be done over several years. »
Thus, when it comes to farm cider, it is true, according to Catherine St-Georges, that there is no official name, but “in the understanding that we can have, yes, it would be a cider made from apples from the producer’s orchard”. In fact, the principle is the same as for all farm products. When we talk about farmhouse cheese, for example, we are talking about a cheese made on site with milk from the producer’s herd.
The taste of nature
Making a farm cider is “not complicated in itself,” says Audrey-Anne Lussier, who was a lawyer before embarking on the adventure of the Equinoxe cider farm. According to her, the process is similar to that of making wine. The apples are harvested, they are left to ripen a little longer if necessary, the fruit is pressed to extract the juice, which is poured into vats or into oak barrels to let it work for a few months, before bottle to let it still work.
Moreover, in this regard, the couple suggests keeping a few bottles of farm cider at home, because “some have really interesting aging potential”. Thus, at Equinoxe, the ciders that come out in May come from the juice that was pressed the previous October.
During this process, the couple, who fell in love with the orchard they have invested in, make it a point to act as little as possible on the product, by letting the natural yeasts, also called “indigenous”, work. They are what transform sugars into alcohol. These yeasts are brought to the fruit by insects, the wind and the degree of humidity, for example, which create a particular and distinct bacterial flora each year.
“The big difference between working with yeasts that are found in nature or industrial ones that we buy, is that we don’t know who is invited to the party. With the traditional method, the baking powders take over and ensure stability, whereas for us, it’s a surprise. A bit like for natural wine,” explains Marc-Antoine Arsenault-Chiasson, an agronomist by training.
This control left to nature will ensure that, even in vats or bottles, the product will continue to evolve and will give the ciders farmhouse, hay or stable flavors for example.
A booming product
Around them, in the Eastern Townships, the owners of the Équinoxe cider farm notice that others are also talking about offering farm ciders in the near future. “For the moment, the supply is greater than the demand, but we know that there is room for good farm ciders, believes Audrey-Anne Lussier. After all, even if cider consumption has increased, it’s still just the equivalent of one 750 ml bottle per person per year, compared to 20 bottles for wine and much more for beer! »
It is for this reason, moreover, that the couple decided to open their farm to the public, in order to “teach people what farm cider is and so that it becomes part of the consumption habits of Quebecers”. , says the young woman. Thus, this summer, in Farnham, from Thursday to Sunday, visitors can order a picnic basket in advance which they can enjoy in the orchard, taste the products of the young company or take advantage of the package which includes the visit guided tour of the premises, a tasting and a glass of cider.
“For the moment, the cider houses that make farm cider are not open to the public, but it was in our business plan from the start: we wanted to offer a farm experience in order to stand out and raise awareness our products”, notes Marc-Antoine Arsenault-Chiasson, who obviously likes to communicate his passion.
“Right now, it’s a bit of the Wild West, we have to clarify all that, he adds. But we are lucky to be in the front row of an industry under construction. It’s really stimulating! »