This text is part of the special book Plaisirs
Charles-Henri de Coussergues has been directing the activities of the Orpailleur vineyard in Dunham since 1982. According to him, “being a winegrower is the best job in the world, but it is also a lot of work”. This is why he generously puts his 40 years of experience in the vineyard at the service of young apprentice winegrowers, including a certain Win Le Phan. This exceptionally fiery businesswoman, sommelier and owner of Domaine La Vieille Grange, in Beauce, is working to build her own vineyard.
Caribou: First of all, what does it take to be a winemaker?
Charles-Henri de Coussergues : Some people tend to see the life of a winegrower with rose-colored glasses: they imagine that we walk quietly in the vineyards, that we drink wine, that we travel. I like to tell them that it’s not always so bucolic! It is not a retirement project, as many believe.
To be a winemaker, it takes patience, perseverance and a lot of passion. It takes a good foundation in agriculture and you have to manage the production, processing and marketing of our products.
Ultimately, it takes a lot of interpersonal skills since you will have to tell your story, receive people at the vineyard, forge links…
… and accept interview requests from journalists, even when you’re on vacation in France? (laughs)
Charles-Henri : Exactly ! I love it. And I’m not afraid for Win, she has all these qualities. I know she will succeed.
Win, why did you ask Charles-Henri to become your mentor?
Win Le Phan : It was a dream for me to be able to learn from him. Charles-Henri is an incredibly generous man of his time and he is a valuable adviser. He’s a leader in the industry. He is very involved with the next generation and coaches young people brilliantly.
Charles-Henri : And I am happy to help. I always say to young people: “Come spend some time in the vineyard, ask me your questions! When Win called me the first time, I could feel all of his passion, all of his energy. She was educated, documented, ready. I welcomed her to the vineyard with open arms.
What questions does a young winegrower ask a pioneer in the field?
Win : My first question was: “What should I not do? (laughs)
Charles-Henri suggested that I favor reasoned cultivation. It is the fact of applying the concepts of organic agriculture without having the certifications. It is to give the earth the chance to nourish itself naturally.
He also told me to take my time to prepare my land before planting the vines and I followed his advice. I put in green manure a year longer than planned. I had to plant in 2021, and finally, it was done on July 10, 2022.
Charles-Henri : With my experience, I try to avoid them making mistakes, for example concerning the preparation of the fields, the drainage of the soil, the structure of the soil, frosts in spring, the choice of grape varieties…
Is it easier to become a winemaker in Quebec than it was before?
Charles-Henri : Yes, it’s easier than in my time. There are fewer failures and more success… if future winegrowers prepare adequately. There is a lot of camaraderie, mutual aid and sharing in the wine industry in Quebec. We don’t see ourselves as competitors, we are too small players. We want everyone to succeed. The Wine Council [une association qui regroupe des vignerons du Québec] helps us a lot to move things forward. Thanks to this organization, young winegrowers can be well equipped from the start. And there was the advent of delicatessens, which allowed us to diversify our points of sale and make ourselves known throughout Quebec.
Do they also have more financial and technological assistance than before?
Charles-Henri : This is a very good point. Yes, now winemakers are lucky to have more help from agronomists and oenologists. In addition, the provincial government offers assistance and subsidies, for example for the purchase of equipment.
Win, did you take advantage of it?
Win : Yes ! If we can afford the help of an oenologist to help us start our project, it is because it is 80% subsidized. The purchase of our machinery is also subsidized. It’s a great chance that we have, because the first years will not be profitable, the time that the vine grows.
Is there still room for new winegrowers in Quebec?
Charles-Henri : Definitely ! We lack Quebec wine in Quebec. We only produce a tiny fraction of what is drunk in the province and yet the enthusiasm is there.
Win : The new generation does not want to reinvent the wheel, but we want to try new things. We’re going to bring something different. We want to test new winemaking processes, new grape varieties, we want to see if we are able to grow vinifera [une variété de vigne européenne dont sont issus de nombreux cépages]. We really like natural wine, too.
Win, when do you plan to present your first vintage?
Win : This summer, we planted 4656 plants, including Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Vidal, New York Muscat, which are in fact cuttings from the Orpailleur! We therefore expect a first vintage in 2025 or 2026.
In the meantime, I have a lot of work to do. I will still be harvesting at the Orpailleur this fall. I will study, find out as much as possible. I will also take care of my vines, weeding, pruning and protecting them for the winter. We also have to build the cellar and the tasting room.
Hoping that Charles-Henri will be invited to taste your first cuvée!
Win : He will be invited, that’s for sure! He’ll get the first sip, before we even put it in a bottle!
Charles-Henri : I intend to be there!
“You have to take the profession of winemaker seriously, if you want Quebec wine to be taken seriously” — Win Le Phan