This text is part of the special Pleasures notebook
If spring makes incursions into southern Quebec, winter has not said its last word further north. In the Monts-Valin National Park, the Vallée des Fantômes offers a striking spectacle of winter in the heart of the Nordic world.
Going to Alexis Bay, in the northeast of Monts-Valin National Park, is already an adventure in itself. Departing from the discovery and services center, board the Fantôme Express shuttle, the brand new trailer bus on caterpillars, to access the Vallée des Fantômes. An ascent of 320 m plunges you, in less than an hour, into a landscape enhanced by winter. In this year with little snowfall, the Monts Valin massif did not receive the six meters of annual snow that it collects on average. We can still count on a good three meters of superimposed layers to enjoy one of the prettiest winter areas in Quebec, marked by resolutely northern vegetation. We are here in the spectacular Laurentian range, north of the Saguenay River and the town of the same name and in the heart of a region where the outdoors is king.
Towards Dubuc peak
Departure is from the EXP chalet, in the Baie d’Alexis sector, for a snowshoe hike towards the Vallée des Fantômes over a distance of 7 km. The conditions are perfect for us to take the Pic-Dubuc trail: the temperatures are rather mild and the snowflakes flutter in the invigorating air. We had been warned: from the start, this path climbs steadily, up to the Le Fantôme relay, which we connect to after an hour and a half of continuous climbing. Inside, it’s “radio monts Valin”, in front of a wood stove fueled by successive hikers. Everyone hangs up their belongings to dry while exchanging their impressions with the other occupants in a jovial atmosphere. Time to bite into a protein bar, we are off for the final climb towards Pic Dubuc. At 984 m above sea level, it marks the highest point in the region accessible on foot, with breathtaking views of the Saguenay valley.
Ghosts and mummies
We are entering a spectacular section for which the valley is famous. On either side, the path is bordered by a forest of balsam fir and spruce trees frozen in an incredible white coat which gives them a spectral appearance: the famous ghosts.
This sector, which receives abundant precipitation, is sheltered from the wind, which allows the accumulation of snow to gel over the entire surface of the trees. The valley is also conducive to the formation of mummies, these conifers bending under the weight of the snow. The high altitude fog generates tiny drops of water here which freeze under the effect of the extreme cold. The result is magical and the imagination does the rest. Like the clouds, everyone sees these mummies in their own way: pilgrims in prayer, statuary silhouettes, ethereal creatures in a captivating atmosphere. About thirty minutes later, we reach the viewpoint of Pic Dubuc drowned in a thick high altitude fog where the krummholz are gradually revealed, these shrubs which owe their stunted stature to the harsh mountain conditions. To begin our return to Alexis Bay, we opt for the narrow Le Sasquatch trail, a sublime 5 km loop which follows a watercourse in an atmosphere conducive to wonder. This allows you to stretch the pleasure while lengthening your stride.
Practical information
Die-hards will enjoy walking to the Valley of the Ghosts from the discovery and services center and establishing their home in a refuge. Two of them, the Ulysse and the Pionnier, are respectively accessible 5.5 km and 8 km from the reception. EXP cabins are available in the Baie d’Alexis sector.
Less traveled trails
This content was produced by the Special Publications team at Duty, relating to marketing. The writing of the Duty did not take part.