Death seen up close during an American mountain trilogy

Editor’s note: Quebec mountaineer François-Guy Thivierge began the challenge of his life in August 2019: climbing 55 mountains in 55 months to mark his 55th birthday. On a regular basis, The newspaper presents the mountains climbed as part of this project. Here are mountains 26, 27 and 28 of his great challenge.

As much as the mountain brings peace and happiness to François-Guy Thivierge, it can make him think by making his blood run cold. It was exactly this duality of feelings that he experienced on one of the three spectacular mountains climbed on the American West Coast, when his route brought him across another climber who perished in his quest to the summit.

The challenge of climbing 55 mountains in 55 months continues to give the businessman and mountaineer from Quebec his share of contradictory emotions. This time, a two-hour drive from Seattle on Mount Rainier, he waltzed between wonder and shock. Between satisfaction and desolation. Between joy and dismay.

This mountain, although far from being considered dangerous like K2 or Everest, has nonetheless claimed the lives of 90 people over time.

Thivierge, as part of a trip to Washington State and California, decided to embark on this expedition in addition to braving Mount Whitney and Half Dome.

Wise decision

When Thivierge and his partner Alfred Boivin stopped at the Muise camp on Mount Rainier, at an altitude of 3,300 meters, to recharge their batteries and acclimatize after more than 5 hours of walking with 30 kilo bags, they chose to delay the remainder of the one-day expedition due to forecasted strong winds.

A few hours before leaving, they noticed the nervousness of patrollers and learned that a mountaineer had suffered respiratory problems, which led to cardiac arrest.

The tandem began the 1,000 meter climb around 1 a.m. in the night knowing full well that they risked falling on the body, which could not be recovered, because the helicopters could not fly.

“We obviously came across the deceased climber, wrapped in a sleeping bag. It gives you chills and shows how life can quickly turn towards death. It leads us to reflect on human capabilities and the limits that must not be crossed. We must respect the mountain, which will always be right,” confides Thivierge, who took a moment to reflect near the deceased before attacking the summit.

Intoxicating moment

Continuing his path, the adventurer had to cross a crater for 1 km before reaching the summit, in a state of grace after the difficult emotions he had experienced earlier.

“Throughout, we opted for a very slow, but constant pace. We planned to arrive at the summit with an incredible sunrise. It was worthy of the most beautiful summits I have done in my life, whether in Ecuador, Peru or Mexico. I had tears in my eyes,” he recalls after this overflow of strong sensations.

Resilience at Mount Whitney

Thivierge then headed south, towards California, where Mount Whitney awaited him from the top of its 4,421 meters with the giant sequoias at its base.

If the ascent went wonderfully, it was a different story for the descent since the route that had to be taken was too snowy. Result: a long detour of 17 km which led directly to the car and another eight hours of walking to find the base camp, where the personal effects of Thivierge and his sidekick had remained.

” We were toasted arriving ! We were lucky because the other teams arrived at base camp and their equipment was gone. For me, it was a test of resilience. I have rarely had so much pain in my legs and back,” testifies the experienced climber.

Little scare at Half Dome

After the Whitney, head for Half Dome, the famous mountain which is represented on the logo of The North Face company. During a brief acclimatization climb, Thivierge’s rope companion suffered a fall that left him with stitches.

Fortunately, the ascent of the Snake Dike wall then went well, despite some apprehensions linked to Thivierge’s past in these places.

“It’s one of the most spectacular mountains in the world. I had it on my list for the 55 challenge because I had attempted it in 2012 and I had seen the fatal fall of an Austrian who had passed me. It had ended my journey, and I wanted to do it again.

“It’s a climbing route where there is little protection. Falls of 200 or 300 feet are possible. Technically, it is not that difficult, but the risk is high,” notes the mountaineer, who rejoices in the “crunchy moments and moments of doubt” experienced in his American trilogy.

HEADING FOR THE MOUNTAINS

Mount Rainier

Altitude: 4394 m

Country: United States

Region: 2 hours from Seattle, Washington

First ascent: 1870

Ascent: 1000 m

Duration: 9 hours

Mount Whitney

Altitude: 4421 m

Country: United States

Region: Sequoia National Park, California

First ascent: 1873

Ascent: 1900 m

Duration: 15 hours

Half Dome

Altitude: 2693 m

Country: United States

Region: Yosemite Valley, California

First ascent: 1875

Ascent: 1450 m

Duration: 13 hours

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