Criticism | La Belle Histoire: making its mark

Restaurant criticism takes a new turn at Press. As always, our critics tell you about their experience, highlighting the good and, sometimes, the bad ones. But we now explain the choice of one restaurant or another. We also present the team in the dining room and in the kitchen. This week: The Beautiful Story

Iris Gagnon-Paradis
Press

Why talk about it?

First, there is the mythical place where La Belle Histoire has set up shop, the former Bistro à Champlain, in Sainte-Marguerite-du-Lac-Masson. In 2019, the couple made up of chef Étienne Demers and sommelier Sophie Allaire (who has known Champlain and Monique Charest since childhood) were offered the incredible opportunity to revive the place, closed since 2014. Appointed three times at the last Lauriers de la Gastronomie, La Belle Histoire won the collective prize this year for Best Restaurant, and Sophie Allaire for Best Room Service. While the Laurentians region, long renowned for its excellent restaurants, seems to be enjoying a new impetus, this restaurant is simply a must to visit.

Who are they ?

Chef Étienne Demers has passed through renowned Montreal establishments such as Accords and Hoogan and Beaufort; Sophie Allaire has worked at tables like Marconi and Joséphine. The latter are supported by a small, solid and very involved team: the sommelier proudly points out having kept all her employees during the difficult period when the dining rooms were closed; among them, Félix Carrier, sous-chef, Renaud Letellier, the house baker who cooks fresh pasta and also desserts (with the new support of pastry chef Benjamin Brouillard), or Mélanie Simard, who signs the cocktail menu, and Maggie Boucher who, in addition to working there as a follower, is also the official photographer of the place… and her dad, a fisherman on Lake Saint-Pierre who provides his delicious catches at the restaurant.

Our experience

Having already visited La Belle Histoire for an article on the gastronomic revival of the Laurentians, we knew a little what to expect when we sat down to a table, on a chilly Friday evening at the end of October, in the inviting dining room, tastefully decorated with its benches in teal velvet, and whose walls with wide pine beams recall the venerable age of this former general store dating from 1864, which Jean Paul Riopelle had convinced Champlain Charest to buy in the 1970s.

Reread our article “Laurentians: the North by the fork”

What to expect, then? Precise, neat and elegant market cuisine, highlighting regional products, always in tune with the seasons. To super professional service, just relaxed enough, never pinched. In a warm and welcoming atmosphere in an exceptional setting.

And that’s exactly what we got for our little family of three. The chef is an ace when it comes time to compose dishes that know how to make products shine in the tastiest way. He does it with a lot of finesse and aesthetics, and we enjoy his sauces masterfully executed, his proteins prepared to perfection, his vegetables worked with meticulousness.

At La Belle Histoire, each dish seems to have its own story. Like this starter of sturgeon, freshly caught by Maggie’s dad, which is delivered whole to the restaurant, gutted, risen in fillets, brined, cooked and smoked on the spot. A very delicate starter, with rather subtle flavors, presented with thin slices and mashed celeriac, daikon slices and small pieces of almonds.

The other starter, successful without being our favorite of the evening, offered an interesting marriage of flavors, and lots of textures: house silky tofu (a little grainy), grilled sucrine, pickled red onion petals, caramelized onions, potato chips. potatoes, mizuna sprigs, sumac. Original (and vegan)!

As a main course, you can’t resist the two meats on the menu: Quebec lamb and guinea fowl. The first is served in two ways, grilled and braised. The meat, of absolute tenderness, was well accompanied: Swiss chard, broad beans, Japanese turnips, all topped with a delicious gravy. We have to ask for a second portion of the very good homemade sourdough bread (and fight with son so that he leaves us a part) so as not to lose a drop.

Coming from the Plume des Champs farm in Rigaud, the guinea fowl was flawless: skin that crispy to the bite, juicy and tender flesh, seductive truffle sauce, all served (that evening) with fleshy cabbage leaves. Brussels, maitake mushrooms, marinated shallots: an explosion of flavors creating a perfect balance in the mouth.

For dessert, the wonder continues. Here we are entitled to astonishing proposals, where vegetables such as candied squash with honey shine or the layered cake with date puree and caramelized Jerusalem artichoke cream (whose peels, fries, adorn the top of the cake), a game around the classic Queen Elizabeth cake which really delighted us, served with pear sorbet and small crispy sesame squares.

In our glass

Sophie Allaire makes a point of dedicating an entire page to Quebec wines on her drink menu, in addition to offering several local ciders, beers and spirits. There you will find prominent vineyards (Pinard et Filles, Negondos, Domaine du Nival) and several discoveries. The rest of the menu goes well with the chef’s cuisine: light, well-balanced wines, including several natural or organic juices, such as Vej 180 from the Italian vineyard Podere Pradarolo, tasted with our meal, a floral maceration wine, all in freshness. Special mention to the cocktail menu, original, with several choices of mocktails.

How much ?

Exceptional products, local, artisanal, worked with care, all this has a price: during our visit, the starters were detailed at $ 16 and $ 21 and, in addition to the dish of fresh pasta of the moment, at $ 30, the other three main courses were around $ 50. House cocktails and desserts are available at around $ 15 each.

Good to know

The La Belle Histoire menu changes every week, depending on arrivals and seasonal inspirations – at the bottom of the week’s menu, you will always find current suppliers mentioned. There is usually a vegetarian starter and main course, and always the option of ordering a simple plate of fresh pasta for the kids. Stairs are located at the entrance to the restaurant, but we hear that people with reduced mobility have their VIP entrance and can go through the kitchen entrance, more easily accessible, if necessary.

Information

La Belle Histoire is in action Thursday through Saturday, 5:30 pm to 9:30 pm Reservations are highly recommended.

75, chemin Masson, Sainte-Marguerite-du-Lac-Masson

Visit the La Belle Histoire website