The little story
A journey through time ? The origins of aspic date back to the Middle Ages – it was called so because of its gel-like appearance, the texture of which is somewhat reminiscent of a snake’s skin. Cooks of the time had discovered that a thickened meat broth could be transformed into jelly, the galantines and other roast fats of our grandmothers being made from meat stock.
The rural exodus, however, created a time gap that disrupted Quebec’s culinary traditions.
“It was forgotten over time,” explains Michel Lambert, author of the five volumes of The history of Quebec home cooking. People who left the countryside to populate the cities left at a young age without having acquired the know-how of their parents. They lost their traditions. »
The resurgence of aspic in Quebec in the mid-20th centurye century is therefore the result of an advertising campaign by the Kraft company, which sought to raise awareness of its Jell-O jelly powder. “In the 1950s and 1960s, the American company decided to broadcast recipes on TV,” Mr. Lambert tells us. It therefore became commonplace through the small screen, even though it could be bought in Quebec as early as the 1930s.”
Over time, aspic recipes multiplied, some taking root in many regions of the province. “I met lots of people everywhere and I noted all the kinds of aspics that we made,” Michel Lambert tells us. The most popular was the tomato one, with neutral gelatin, celery leaves and green olives – it was served with turkey during the holiday season. Another popular variety was made with chopped slaw, carrots and celery, sometimes apples, mixed with lemon Jell-O. »
WIKIPEDIA COMMONS IMAGE, FROM BETTER HOMES AND GARDENS, SEPTEMBER 1954
Aspic recipes popularized in the 1950s and 1960s often came from advertisements first published in American magazines, where aspic was renamed “Jell-O salad”.
Other aspic recipes found include carrot salad and orange jelly or grated beets and raspberry jelly – this recipe was particularly popular in Gaspésie. Still others added chopped ham, pieces of chicken and chicken noodle soup, or even salmon and cucumber, etc. !
“Until the 1990s, people created other varieties,” says Mr. Lambert, who was a chef in Saguenay in the 1980s before becoming a literature professor. I am now 80 years old and I have experienced several culinary eras. We arrived at a point where we found all the period recipes very kitsch. In particular, there was a break that came with the era of flower power, where we turned, for example, to Asian cultures. But today I see young people in their twenties and thirties who find it sad that we have lost our traditions, and they want to find them again. I have the impression that we will soon return to our culinary roots. »
The Beaufort version
PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
Jean-François Girard, owner of Beaufort, decorated his restaurant with several retro pieces of furniture and finds such as radios from the 1940s and 1950s or laminate tables from the 1960s. “The duty to remember is important at all levels,” says he. These things are beautiful and have a purpose when they are highlighted. »
A Bloody Ceasar aspic as an aperitif for the holiday meal? Why not !
“Aspic recipes are like spaghetti sauces, there are all kinds,” explains the 52-year-old restaurateur, Jean-François Girard. We thought we’d create one that could be served with a shot of vodka. Like a Bloody Caesar, but really deconstructed. It’s not a great discovery in terms of taste, but it works and for time travel, I found it important. And it remains spectacular in the presentation, it is very playful as a dish. »
“We wanted to recall the 1950s, the time when things were grooving on the Plaza Saint-Hubert,” tells us the restaurateur, established since 2022 on the famous Montreal commercial artery. And we found aspic very funny, we wanted to have it on the menu. »
For Montreal in Lights last year, Jean-François Girard and his team wore period clothes unearthed from theater troupes, we even pushed the immersion down to the table service – Mr. Girard said is entertained by shining customers’ shoes! As for the aspic, offered as an aperitif, we prepared it with Clamato juice, red peppers and celery, and topped with a green olive.
Aspic Bloody Caesar
PHOTO ALAIN ROBERGE, THE PRESS
Jean-François Girard’s Bloody Caesar aspic is reminiscent of that with tomatoes and celery, very popular in Quebec during the holiday season in the mid-20th century.e century.
Preparation: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
Ingredients
- 2 sachets of 7 g gelatin Dr Oetker
- 500 ml of Clamato juice
- 1 stalk of celery, cut into brunoise
- 1 half red pepper, cut into brunoise
- Olive oil, to sauté vegetables
- 3 tbsp. tsp cider vinegar
Preparation
- Make the mixture as indicated on the gelatin packet, using the Clamato.
- Quickly (3 minutes maximum) sauté the celery and pepper in a little olive oil.
- Deglaze with cider vinegar.
- Mix everything and pour into the chosen mold or molds.
- Refrigerate for four hours or more.
- Unmold and dip in celery salt.
- Garnish with Manzanilla olives to taste.
- Enjoy, if desired, with a shot of vodka.