Discovery: unique Greek grape variety
Assyrtiko is one of the most unique and high-quality grape varieties in Greece. Originally from the volcanic island of Santorini, it produces powerful and saline white wines. Elsewhere in the country, its wines are generally a little more supple and fruity. But here, from vineyards at altitude in the Amyndeo region, in northern Greece, it produces a wine reminiscent of that of the islands. Pale in color and not very fruity, it offers aromas of zest, citrus peel, smoke, with a saline impression. Very dry, it unfolds in the mouth with texture and chew, supported by invigorating acidity and light tannins. Not the most complex, but very well made and an excellent introduction to the grape variety, it is ideal for oysters, seafood and fish simply grilled or in sauce.
Keeping: 3 to 4 years
Kir-Yianni Assyrtiko Le Nord Florina 2022, $19.35 (13990592), 13.5%
Classic: from father to son and daughter
M. & C. are Mathieu and Camille, the children of the famous Marcel. Who didn’t really want to be famous, let alone adored as a natural wine guru. He simply wanted to make good wine, as naturally as possible. His children, who took over the estate after his death in 2010, continue with the same vision. Raisins Gaulois is their version of gamay de soif: a friendly wine that is drunk chilled in large gulps. A little more nuanced than previous vintages, it opens on a nose where light animal and vegetal notes add complexity to the alluring aromas of small red fruits. The palate is refined, but without lacking substance. Light, very fresh and delicious, with just the right amount of tannins for a little relief, it is best served chilled for an aperitif, or with cold meats, pizza, grilled vegetable salad.
Keep: to drink
M. & C. Lapierre Raisins Gaulois Vin de France 2022, $26.50 (11,459,976), 12.5%*
* Currently being distributed to branches
Festive: the best of Spain
An exceptional estate, owned by the Raventos family since 1497, Raventos i Blanc undoubtedly produces some of the best sparkling wines in Spain. And, above all, it does so by working with the greatest respect for the environment, biodiversity and the vitality of the soil. The De Nit rosé cuvée is one of my favorites every year. Very pale in color, it shows a lot of finesse. A delicate and charming nose opens the ball with notes of citrus fruits, wild strawberries and a hint of noble plants. Very dry, the wine shows a lot of brightness and vitality, with very fine bubbles which stretch out to a long finish. To treat yourself or as a gift, it is perfect to start the festivities, alone or with shrimp bites, fish tartare, tempura vegetables.
Keeping: 5 to 7 years
Raventos i Blanc De Nit Conca del Riu Anoia 2021, $31.25 (12,097,954), 12%, organic