(Paris) Impeccable black suits over a turtleneck at the opening of the parade set the tone for the Givenchy man on Wednesday, whose looks street wear are enhanced by well-cut long coats.
The artistic director of Givenchy, the American Matthew Williams, star of the street wear luxury, has certainly given pride of place to hoodies and overlays of fabrics and patterns, such as tartan and camouflage.
But it is the spirit of aristocratic chic, specific to the DNA of the French house, which punctuated this collection presented as part of the week of men’s ready-to-wear in Paris, with accessories such as varnished ankle boots or black leather gloves.
While being more dressy, the collection offers a multitude of silhouettes: Bermuda shorts with high boots with thick soles, a sweater over a sweatshirt, all worn with a heather gray coat. Or even skirts layered over trousers with faux fur coats for a more sensual look, sportswear with fluorescent green, pink and orange colours, or “total looks” in rust-coloured or shiny green technical fabrics with neck warmers.
PHOTO EMMANUEL DUNAND, AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE
Givenchy’s artistic director, Matthew Williams, gives pride of place to hoodies and layers of fabrics and patterns.
Since the arrival in 2020 of Matthew Williams, Givenchy, a brand of luxury giant LVMH, has given up on haute couture, but offers lines for men in dedicated fashion shows.
Saint-Laurent, home of rival group Kering, for its part organized an intimate men’s fashion show at the Bourse du Commerce on Tuesday evening, the first since Belgian Anthony Vaccarello took over as artistic director in 2016.
A long, flowing silhouette was featured here, with black predominating and long, loose coats.
“Saint Laurent, Gucci, Givenchy work almost better for men than for women. […] These brands want to take market share in the formal part, because it is coming back strongly, “said AFP Alice Feillard, director of men’s supply and purchasing at Galeries Lafayette, before the start of Fashion. weekend.