This text is part of the special Pleasures notebook
The sun, the beach, the sea, relaxation, discovery. Is all this only accessible by plane? No way ! Forget tropical destinations for a moment and set your sights on one of the most beautiful regions of Quebec, where the St. Lawrence reveals its spectacular maritime and rural setting. So it’s decided, this summer, go to the beach…in Charlevoix.
“It looks like the South,” sang Nino Ferrer in 1975. Well, it’s a bit like that feeling you get when you set out during the hot season on the River Route of the Charlevoix region, which extends from Baie-Saint-Paul to La Malbaie. A total of 78 kilometers of pure pleasure for the eyes, along small luminous bends which take us into the dazzling azure and the St. Lawrence as vast as an arm of the sea. What does it matter if the deciduous trees and spruces here supplant palms and coconut trees. The heat and the gentle sea breeze, as well as the colorful villages and beaches that we pass, disorient us just as much. That’s it, we’re on vacation, we know it.
House with a view
There is no shortage of tourist accommodation in Charlevoix, particularly those offering a view of the river. To fully satisfy our desire for the South, our choice fell on a tourist residence located in the small coastal town of Saint-Irénée, worthy of a postcard.
From the outside, the bright pink cabin we selected looks like it came straight out of Maine. But we immediately understand when we enter why it is called The Heart of the Beach. The view of the river from the fully glazed living room and the wooden gallery that borders it is simply breathtaking.
It is in this beautiful, cozy setting with maritime accents, equipped with everything you need to be independent, that we leave our luggage before going out. We can’t wait to get to the Capelans pier and the beach, just a few steps away.
Beaches and Nordic activities
Sand, sun, shimmering waves, light breeze, sailboats, shells, tide. All the ingredients come together to feel like you’re somewhere other than Quebec on the beautiful beach of Saint-Irénée, bordered by a furnished wooden promenade. The water is more invigorating than elsewhere, of course, but the charm of this stretch of sand works for young and old alike.
She is not the only one to shine in the Charlevoix region. Baie-Saint-Paul beach is really pleasant, surrounded by facilities and activities such as sea kayaking. Let’s also think of Petite-Rivière-Saint-François beach, with a 360-degree view of the waters of the Saint Laurent. The South can therefore wait when you have such panoramas close to home.
For people who are a little more cautious, Charlevoix offers other options, such as the Germain Nordic Spa. As for the Wellness Center at the majestic Fairmont Manoir Richelieu, it dominates the La Malbaie valley and is celebrating its 125th anniversary this year with numerous activities. Indoor and outdoor swimming pools, whirlpool baths, hammam, attentive staff in this legendary place with a bird’s eye view of the Saint-Laurent. What more ?
Gourmet tourism
When traveling, wherever it is, eating well is important. And Charlevoix is a model in this area. It is impossible to go to the place without discovering the producers and artisans who gravitate there. Some are near the water, others in the hillsides of the hinterland, but they are all worth the detour. The most famous of them are the Migneron family (Baie-Saint-Paul), Laiterie Charlevoix (Baie-Saint-Paul), Organic meats of Charlevoix (Saint-Urbain), the Menaud brewery and distillery (Clermont), or The Basque farm in Charlevoix (Saint-Urbain).
Thanks to the Flavor Route presented by Tourisme Charlevoix, we also came across little gems that we didn’t yet know about. Champignons Charlevoix, a pioneering company in the cultivation and harvesting of oyster mushrooms above ground, offers surprising and delicious fresh, dried or processed products (such as pesto or mushroom-based jams). We then went to Chez Léon & Lili. This small convenience store is next to a Breton-inspired family biscuit factory whose creations are steeped in Quebec, like blueberry shortbread, or elsewhere, like succulents Amaretti.
Certain Charlevoixian restaurants, which get their supplies from this local pantry, are also unmissable. We can of course think of the famous Faux Bergers and their Buvette gentile (Baie-Saint-Paul), the Labors of the Germain Charlevoix hotel, the Saint-Laurent of the Fairmont Manoir Richelieu. But other establishments are just as interesting, including the Sainti, on the edge of Saint-Irénée beach. In addition to its breathtaking view, it offers a creatively crafted menu, including a blind tasting menu, with exquisite dishes and successful food and wine pairings. Let us particularly salute his mastery of fish and seafood.
Another discovery — and a big favorite: La Marmite. This magnificent ancestral inn in Baie-Saint-Paul, revisited with ancestral, traveling and boho decoration by the second generation of owners, has a warm restaurant where the chef offers fresh, colorful and tasty market cuisine. You absolutely must order the Charlevois board, presented on a tiered platter, and the generous lamb shank. Without forgetting the wines suggested by the owner, with a very sure palate.
In the end, it is with a well-sated stomach, eyes full of azure and river, skin warmed by the sand and the sun, and a heart beating with memories that we must return home. To return, we hope, as quickly as possible. Thank you, beautiful Charlevoix.
This content was produced by the Special Publications team at Duty, relating to marketing. The writing of the Duty did not take part.