The incursion continues this week in the Chianti Classico appellation, with its essential Sangiovese grape variety. Among the 40 samples tasted blind — and as already mentioned in these same pages — a particularly enviable level of excellence.
At the very top of the qualitative pyramid, totaling 8 to 9% of Chianti Classico DOCG volumes, the “Gran Selezione” version officially introduced in 2014 (retroactive to 2010) aims to be “a selection within the selection”, if one wants to. This high-flying cuvée includes in the specifications a minimum of 80% Sangiovese specifically from the estate, as well as a minimum of 30 months in barrel and 3 months in bottle and proves to be a selection of the best plots, vats and given vintages.
Let’s start with a few candidates from this “great selection” before continuing briefly with the Chianti Classicos offered here in ascending order of price.
Il Grigio da San Felice Gran Selezione 2018 ($49.25 – 12480291). I find once again this class, this patina encountered in the 2010 vintage taken from my personal cellar. Balance is sovereign here. Five highly qualitative plots enriched with clones sorted on the calf — sorry, the shutter — dress this cuvée of great clarity, packed with fresh, ripe and tight tannins, carried with rigor, depth and conviction. (5+) © ★★★★
Carpineto Gran Selezione 2016 ($50.50 – 15072314). The “cold” climate of the two hectares of the vineyard on the side of Dudda (Greve in Chianti) concentrates here a fruitiness of great freshness. All tightened by aging in barrels, which adds to the empyreumatic character. Well supported, fellow! Accompanied by grilled beef ribs? (5+) © ★★★ 1/2
Santa Caterina Gran Selezione 2017, Castello di Albola ($53.50 – 14400363). We quickly move on to animal flavors where leather, cedar and cherry stone support a consistent, very fresh palate. Appreciable length, although below expectations. (5) © ★★★
Castello Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2019, Mazzei ($62.50 – 15051636). Six clones and eight massal selections of Sangiovese trace here a modern red wine, with broad and talkative fruitiness obviously ennobled by appropriate aging. The whole remains very digestible, even if we would have liked a little more length on the finish. (10+) © ★★★ 1/2
Tolaini “Vigna Montebello Sette” Gran Selezione 2019 (nd – 12612143). The strong presence of filtering gravel on a loamy background combined with a varied use of woods ensures authority here, but also a remarkable aromatic presence to this pure Sangiovese. An ample red with very fresh, tight tannins, nuanced by notes of mint, cedar and bay leaf. Lots of panache, length. (10+) © ★★★★
Lamole di Lamole 2020 ($24.40 — 14991600). Maturity and freshness on a slightly old-fashioned set. Balanced, all the same. (5) ★★ 1/2
Le Miccine 2019 ($24.80 — 12257559). Notes of maraschino cherry on a linear, refined structure. (5) ★★1/2
Tenuta Perano 2019, Frescobaldi ($24.95 – 13860270). Nice surprise here! Clarity, purity and style on a radiant, highly civilized whole. At this price… (5+) © ★★★ 1/2
Ruffino Riserva Ducale 2019 ($27 – 45195). In 1977, it was THE chianti. But it is a shadow of itself in 2023. Everything is going well, but it remains simple for the price. (5) ★★ 1/2
Castello di Albola Riserva ($27.25 – 10254717). Prefer it to the Classico for the price. Expressive fruity, very fresh, bright. All with impeccable balance. (5+) © ★★★
Brancaia 2020 ($28.30 – 12895104). With Fontodi and Fonterutoli, Brancaia marks my winning trio! Pure and fragrant like a great Beaunois Pinot, with fine tannins infused with lots of love. Sensual. (5+) ★★★ 1/2