All champagnes are sparkling, but not all sparkling are necessarily champagnes. Well, you already knew that. But can a sparkling wine be as good as a champagne? You don’t even doubt it for a second, because you are aware that this Triple Zero Extra Brut from Domaine de La Taille aux Loups in the Montlouis-sur-Loire appellation ($36 – 14781848 – (5) ★★★ 1/2 – HAS) or this Franciacorta Ca’del Bosco Prestige Extra Brut ($45.50 – 11008024 – (5) ★★★★ – T) are on the same qualitative footing as a lord of Reims or Epernay. They are just different. Isn’t valuing differences already a source of discovery and open-mindedness?
39 samples were sent to the To have to by the agencies (whom we thank by the way) for this test bench, and this, after the recent tasting of champagnes in the same price range. With regard to the methodology used, the sparkling wines were tasted blind in INAO type glasses at a temperature of 9 degrees Celsius and are here identified according to the type of method used for their production, i.e. HAS (ancestral), VS (Charmat) and T (traditional). The rest of the wines evaluated can be found on the website of the To have to. Health and social welfare!
Brut Sauvage, Domaine Baud “Generation 9”, Crémant du Jura, France ($29.65 – 12100316 – T) Nine generations of know-how for a neat and detailed brut that celebrates Chardonnays (70%) fine in texture, with good length. (5) ★★★ 1/2
Vouvray Brut, Sebastien Brunet, Loire, France ($23.75 – 12846441 – T) Pure expression of organic Chenin Blanc with floral nuances of jasmine, quince, vanilla and peach flan. Enough to activate the saliva pump with its fine tension and its long, sapid finish. (5) ★★★
I Tant Mar Salada, Cava Brut, Spain ($16.80 – 13497845 – T) Frank, vigorous and lightly dosed bubbles, with a good fruity, vanilla and slightly buttery volume. Nice deal. (5) ★★ 1/2
Prosecco Superiore 2021, Camúl, Valdobbiadene, Veneto, Italy ($21.60 – 12797846 – VS) The Glera grape variety sparkles, under its delicious nuances of golden apple and ripe banana, with simplicity and roundness. (5) ★★ 1/2
Fiol Prosecco, Veneto, Italy ($16.55 – 12999333 – VS) We play here on the sweetness/acidity contrast to better revive a rich, candied and malic palate, with the taste of Graham cracker and caramelized apple. On the Sunday pannetone. (5) ★★
Carpineto Farnito Brut, Tuscany, Italy ($25.95 – 11341855 – T) We like here the aniseed tone of this pure chardonnay with nuances of green apple and lemon. An aperitif mousse for lonely gougère. (5) ★★★
Cava Lola from Paco & Lola Brut, Spain ($20.30 – 13483911 – T) It smells good of the Tatin sisters’ tart, white chocolate and warm apple turnover, with freshness, volume and a lot of spirit at this price. (5) ★★★
Mumm Napa Brut Prestige, USA ($30.75 – 11442701 – T) This classic did not disappoint. Harmonious dosage and rich, expressive and gourmet flavors of toasted almond and rounded French toast with a good dose of sensuality. (5) ★★★
PMG Julien Fouet, Wine of France ($21.75 – 13497802 – HAS) Obviously, these initials of “Pour ma gueule” are also yours, with their lively and mischievous approach of green apple and rhubarb. Ideal for the mouth of impromptu visitors! (5) ★★★
Roederer Brut Anderson Valley, United States ($39 – 294181 – T) All the touch of Champagne, but in sunny regions. Rigor and depth mastered under a skilful autolysis of the yeasts, with this textured taste of butter cream, custard and barely caramelized apple. A sparkling wine dressed like a prince, to be served at the table with shellfish pinching themselves with happiness. (5) ★★★ 1/2
Clos Amador Brut Reserva, Cava, Spain ($15.30 – 12888182 – T) With its 15 months on slats (i.e. the regulatory minimum in Champagne), this generously dosed, but still harmonious cava, will already make sure to satisfy the thirst of the many tables to come, if only for the low price. demanded and the undeniable overall quality. Poached pear, spices and Meyer lemon on a saline frame with a strong personality. (5) ★★ 1/2
Turbulent, Domaine Sérol, Wine of France ($27 – 14718161 – HAS) One of my favorite natural organic rosé sparkling wines, but also a light-toned but chattering Gamay like a stray thrush in the middle of a cherry orchard. Absolute fruity clarity and creamy notes, both tender and lively. The coffee shoot the day after! (5) ★★★
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