[Billet vins] Mario Brossoit at L’Express: an outstanding host!

“My small business, does not know the crisis,

blooming, she exhibits satiny treasures,

golden as you wish…”

This melody by the great Alain Bashung has been looping for nearly three decades. Hard to get rid of. The “verse for the ear” – much more poetic than an earthworm for the pavilion – did it again this week for a company which, over more than four decades this time, puts the cover back and exhibits in glasses (for the mouth in l occurrence) of “satin treasures, golden as you wish…”

Yes, we’ve been going back to the chic L’Express bistro on rue Saint-Denis in Montreal since December 19, 1980. Why? For the atmosphere where free and festive spirits feed, the courteous and precise service, the timeless bistronomic table and, and… to live, by interposed complicity, the passion of its host. Its nuggets in the cellar arouse the envy of passing winegrowers as much as of wine lovers who prefer to drink the best bottles from their own cellar at a lower cost on site. Not to mention the other customers, neophytes but curious, who trust Mario Brossoit to open the intimate doors of their imagination. I met him recently over a glass of Burgundy to talk about the crisis, about life, but above all about life without the crisis.

I’m not comfortable with the idea of ​​an intimidating sommelier; I have always wanted to break the mold by identifying the client’s tastes as closely as possible to make him an honest proposal

Crisis ? Do not know.

Let’s be clear, I am not impartial, although ethically realistic. I was already spending the fruit of my tips on the spot when I was a sommelier without an apron not far from the chic bistro, in 1980. I always came there, piqued, like many elsewhere, by the discovery of a pearl to add part of a long series of tastings, while Mario was already officiating at the Les Millésimes boutique adjoining L’Express, where he stocked up on private imports. A time besides when the latter practically did not exist in Quebec whereas they abound today on any self-respecting menu.

“It was my sister who invited me to join the adventure at the very beginning, when I was destined for the world of communication”, relates Mario who, today, is busy with the destiny of the famous establishment. Wine cellar included. “I started in the dining room as a clerk before receiving clients as a maître d’hôtel for twenty years. At the same time, I was training in wine with Jules Roiseux, because there was no sommelier in the restaurant business like there is today. »

Big names like Patrick Bardoul (for the wines) and, of course, the legendary Monsieur Masson (the most exquisite counter smoothie in practice on this side of the Atlantic!) joined him at a time when L’ Express, a victim of its own success, has to deal with a long queue (90 minutes flat) of customers massed at reception. No less than 5 cases of Laurent-Perrier champagne per week stir up the spirits at the 60-seat table (plus 15 at the counter) of the establishment. Crisis ? Do not know !

An honest encounter

1980-2023. Soon 45 years of activity. A circle is coming full circle, with the departure of the elders, but also due to a pandemic which, as elsewhere, has dispersed the troops in terms of personnel. With its corollary that new training is required for as many new candidates. Because L’Express is also and above all a wine list, a model menu, still and always among the most dynamic, eclectic and humble on the price side of the current restaurant industry. “I’m trying to continue on this path, but the costs are skyrocketing, whether in terms of wages or goods, Mario laments. I remain wise, but I cannot absorb everything. »

If our host makes a point of being relevant and innovative, he cannot do the job alone. “One day I would like to be supported by a sommelier or sommelier to help me with cellar management,” he said.

“I’m not comfortable with the idea of ​​an intimidating sommelier; I’ve always wanted to break the mold by identifying the customer’s tastes as closely as possible to make him an honest proposal. In my opinion, it is necessary to establish a meeting between staff and customers by instilling mutual trust. I would even go further by saying that when choosing between two wines, I like to offer the cheapest wine to the customer who asks you for your opinion. Restaurants that last have more values ​​than printing banknotes, I think. That is what is said. And well said.

“And then there are families whose second or even third generation we serve. It would be indelicate to break this bond of trust…” I bet that Mario will then offer them this good burgundy served during our interview and of which he has swept up all the stocks to make it his red of the week. It’s because he has a lot of flair, our host!

Grab while there’s some left!

To see in video


source site-43