Bordeaux, Saint-Émilion and, to add to the beauty, not to say the sophisticated debauchery of the senses… Pomerol. Some houses have shone and distinguished themselves in these appellations since 1937, first as merchants, then sharecroppers and harvesting owners. Add the title of traveling salesman, and you have there the complete business card of the Jean-Pierre Moueix Establishments, based in Libourne.
For 20 years now, applied to the exercise of an unfailing human relationship (and not “public”), the Moueix come to present to us the latest additions to a battery of properties to make a seal drool in front of a school of cod . It was Jean, son of Laurent Navarre (now devoted to retirement to enjoy old bottles of La Fleur-Pétrus, Trotanoy, Hosanna and other equally ugly stuff), who recently met the press, in order to share some beautiful nuggets soon on the shelves. Tedious exercise I know, tasting them all, but someone somewhere has to do the job. Do what wood! the saying goes.
Reliable wines, which you can buy with your eyes closed, like these Burgundies where the source and the name of the winemaker take precedence above all. Of the 17 wines on offer, 7 are currently available, in excellent vintages. On this point, the Bordeaux region seems to benefit, like the 2008, 2009 and 2010 trilogy, from the same qualitative concordance with the 2018, 2019 and 2020, the latter being in this “hot” profile, which seems to have benefited the Right Bank Merlots. To avoid redundancy, I spare you the terms “castles”. The wines, not tasted blind, are commented here in the order of tasting.
Christian Moueix 2019, Bordeaux ($17.15 – 13734337). I never get tired of this assembly always of an astonishing quality constant. The typical profile of the beautiful Bordeaux, simple, sapid, balanced. (5) ★★1/2
Jean-Pierre Moueix 2019, Saint-Émilion ($24 – 14204565). Very ripe Merlots, provided, raspberry. (5) ★★★
Jean-Pierre Moueix 2020, Pomerol ($34.75 – 739623). The warm and lascivious signature of the vintage is felt here. Rich, expansive volume without sacrificing freshness. Nice deal at this price. (5+) © ★★★1/2
De Bel-Air, Lalande de Pomerol 2015 ($40 – 12963226 – coming in October). This gravelly terroir adjoins Pomerol and delivers a slender and expressive red despite the hot and dry season. Vigor and precision. (5) ★★★1/2
Morillon, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 2016 ($34.50 – 14228874). Clays were useful in 2016 to prevent water stress. This Morillon comes out just fine, already opened and ready to drink. (5) ★★★
Haut Roc Blanquant Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 2016 ($59.25 – 14205921). This 3e 100% Merlot Bélair-Monange wine from a historic plot bears witness to the innate character of the terroir. Hand sewn. (5) © ★★★1/2
Chantalouette, Pomerol 2016 ($60.25 – 12127279). The second of the vast Château de Sales (in area) offers this little old-fashioned side, a bit nostalgic, where the notes of mocha, incense and leather flirt with fine and plump tannins. Pleasure… (5) ★★★1/2
2020 Primeurs purchased by the SAQ to come in May
La Serre, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé ($88 – 14800113). The D’Arfeuilles work well on this 7-hectare vineyard “enclosed” due south with Cabernet Francs (15%) which straighten out Merlots abundant in fruit, eloquent in sap. (10+) © ★★★★
Lagrange, Pomerol ($52). A safe bet from the Moueix stable due to a dense and juicy fruitiness, emboldened by toast, spice and delicate notes of coconut. We enjoy. (5+) ★★★1/2
Lafleur-Gazin, Pomerol ($59). In sharecropping since 1976, this pure Merlot with flavors of blackberry, ink and liquorice offers amplitude and length. Well brought up with that. (5+) ★★★1/2
Bourgneuf, Pomerol ($88). Exceptional location at the foot of the hill, under Trotanoy, this cru has a mouthful with its tight, round and coated tannins and its notes of mint which add to the freshness. Sure value. (10+) © ★★★★
Latour in Pomerol ($127). In farming since 1962, this vintage which adjoins the church of Pomerol multiplies the textures with a very fine grain, evocative, highly seductive. A blessing. (10+) © ★★★★
Certan de May, Pomerol ($210). The Cabernets (35%) love the bass here, which “illuminates” the shape, like the base of this wine with its silky tannins. Mystery and sensuality combined. (10+) © ★★★★1/2
Hosanna, Pomerol ($195). The Pétrus of the poor? Some think so. Alas, less than 5 hectares to feed the entire planet! Big sap, rich, deep and detailed with sublime expression of Cabernet Francs. Dense without being heavy. (10+) ★★★★1/2 ©
La Fleur-Petrus, Pomerol ($365).Meeting at the top of the Merlots (here at 93%) and a subsoil of gravel and clay from the Pomerol plateau. Here it is multitrack on the exploration level, exhilarating on that of the catharsis provoked. You will be suffocating with happiness in 20 years! (10+) © ★★★★1/2
Trotanoy, Pomerol ($395). Is it necessary to say it? Complete, in every respect, but above all exemplary because of the perfect fusion between power and voluptuousness, rigor and sensuality, race and, yes, assumed masculinity… even if the word can now shock. The biggest merlot on the planet? Wine. (10+) ★★★★
Bélair-Monange Saint-Émilion Premier Grand Cru Classé ($270). Since 2008, the Moueix family have been ruthlessly pampering this 23.5-hectare cru, which has swallowed up both Bélair and Magdelaine. The brilliance, the elegance, the straightness of sap take precedence here in a set that is certainly discreet, but defies the decades to come. (10+) © ★★★★1/2