Nearly 40 samples of Chianti Classico were sent to the Duty by the agencies (which we thank by the way), just to mark the event Anteprime di Toscana held in Italy on February 11. The carbon footprint of the columnist cannot this year absorb the 6376 kilometers that separate Florence from the newsroom of your favorite daily. “Let the little Chiantis come to me”, a certain Jesus would have said at a time when the many clones of Sangiovese were not yet ennobling what was to contribute in Tuscany to the fame of the Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di appellations. Montepulciano, where the grape variety excels more than elsewhere. Ask a Quebecer if he likes his Chianti on a slice of Diavola pizza from Antonietta and you will quickly understand that no other pairing is more divine!
Of course, this limited number of samples in no way claims to cover the fruits from the approximately 10,600 hectares available to the appellations mentioned above with an annual production of around 60 million bottles. Let’s say that they make it possible to “refresh” the composite portrait of a grape variety whose style variations, even within the Chianti Classico appellation, are notable.
Quality and identity
First observation, the Chianti Classico appellation (which gravitates around the municipalities of Greve, Radda, Castellina and Gaiole) in question today is doing well. And the quality is there. The dynamism displayed by certain large estates in the search for the best clones, within their own in-house nursery, seems to make it possible to achieve a better understanding of this great grape variety, Sangiovese, in the field. This, at prices that are still sustainable compared, for example, to those practiced by the Piedmontese lords, Burgundian princes or other Bordeaux aristocrats.
Second observation, if they often appear modern in style, the wines manage to fiercely preserve their identity, without immoderate extractions or too pronounced oak. The Sangiovese would be altered anyway. They appeared here nuanced with their classic tones of plum, cherry and undergrowth, pleasantly endowed with fine tannins, but above all with this manifest expression of freshness which always distinguishes them. “Chianti is love! my partner used to say. Proving him wrong would not be courteous.
In terms of methodology, all the wines were tasted blind in INAO glasses at a temperature of 15°C with the Master Sommelier (MS) Élyse Lambert, with whom I obviously shared many favorites. Here they are summarily commented on in ascending order of price, knowing that the mention “Riserva” legally requires a minimum of two years in barrel followed by 3 months in bottle. Continued next week!
Borgo Scopeto 2019 ($19 – 13460647). Simple structure on a tense, herbaceous, short base. (5) ★★
San Fabiano Calcinaia 2021 ($19.70 – 13326739). This 2021 will soon replace the 2020 at the SAQ. A vigorous, lively, structuring organic wine. Decant it for a good two hours. At table. (5) © ★★ 1/2
Vigna di Pallino 2021 ($19.80 – 13088312). Nice surprise here. Density, fruity consistency, maturity and balance. (5) ★★★
San Felice 2020 ($20.10 – 245241). An impromptu frost reduced yields in this vintage without affecting the fruitiness, which here seems to offer quite substantial substance without harming overall palatability. The frankness and the balance are there. A classic. (5) ★★★
Carpineto 2020 ($22.60 – 478891). This house seduced us. By its fruity clarity, its fabric, its ripe, fresh, tight tannins. (5) © ★★★
Castello di Bossi 2019 ($23.95 – 13465958). An old-fashioned organic not devoid of depth. Well built set. Will hold well on a calzone. (5) © ★★★
Rocca delle Macie Riserva 2019 ($24.25 – 10324543). Strawberry-cherry nuances on a tasty mouth, a bit woody however. Grilled lamb chop. (5) ★★★
Ser Lapo Riserva 2019, Mazzei ($24.95 – 13485959). We liked ! A personality that is distilled drop by drop with its luminous fruitiness and velvety tannins. (5+) © ★★★ 1/2