Ascent of great peaks | A thought for the Sherpas and the Baltis

Mountaineers have undertaken the long process of acclimatization which will allow them (or not!) to climb great peaks of the Himalayas such as Everest or Lhotse. Most teams can count on the support of Sherpas.

The role of the latter has evolved over the years: they have gone from simple porters to experienced mountaineers and sophisticated entrepreneurs.

But even today, most don’t get the recognition they deserve. This is even more true for the Baltis, the mountaineers of Pakistan.

Canadian author Bernadette McDonald wanted to give them greater visibility with Alpine Risinga book which attempts to give a name and a history to the dozens of Sherpas and Baltis who enabled the exploration of the peaks of the Himalayas.

“I had the idea of ​​writing this book while working on another work which focused on the winter ascent of peaks over 8,000 meters,” says M.^me McDonald in interview with The Press. One of the people I interviewed was Ali Sadpara, one of the most important players in the field of winter climbing. »

It was in 2016, Ali Sadpara had just conquered Nanga Parbat with a Basque mountaineer and an Italian mountaineer. It was a first after decades of efforts by big names in international mountaineering.

“I saw them at different events and Ali Sadpara was always in the background,” continues M^me McDonalds. He was treated a bit like a second-class citizen even though he had been the strongest of the three. »

She realized that many expedition reports didn’t even mention the names of local climbers. However, their working conditions were difficult and many suffered serious injuries or even lost their lives.

Over the years, the most promising Sherpas have had access to training that has allowed them to gain a foothold in Western expeditions and improve their working conditions.

“The turning point is the internet and social networks,” says M^me McDonalds. They figured out how to use social media to promote themselves and tell their own stories. »

The extreme example is Nirmal Purja (or Nimsdai), a Nepalese mountaineer who achieved superstar status, notably by recording a record speed in the sequence of 14 peaks over 8,000 meters. He now runs his own trekking and mountaineering agency.

Bernadette McDonald noted a certain delay in Pakistan compared to Nepal.

“Mountaineers are still very poor and do this work to support their families,” she says.

Quebec mountaineer Louis Rousseau, who has tackled several 8,000 meter peaks in Pakistan, explains that Pakistani climbers, like the Baltis, did not have access to the same training as the Nepalese.

“It will take a lot of effort, but there are still exceptions in Pakistan, superstars, very high level climbers. »

He appreciates Bernadette McDonald’s work in telling the story of local climbers, a story that remained somewhat hidden.

So far, the Alpine community has welcomed Alpine Rising. “Above all, they tell me: it’s about time! », exclaims M^me McDonalds.

The specialist site ExplorersWeb, however, criticized the work, saying that it only presented one side of the coin, that of local mountaineers.

Journalist Angela Benavides talks in particular about a violent event that occurred on Everest in 2013 between a group of Sherpas and Western climbers Simone Moro, Ueli Steck and John Griffith.

“It’s true that I present the side of the Sherpas in this story,” says Bernadette McDonald. The idea of ​​this book is precisely to give a voice to local mountaineers. I can’t really apologize. »

The Canadian author indicates, however, that ultimately, it will be up to the Sherpas, the Baltis and other local mountaineers to tell their own stories.

“I’ve tried to let their voices speak, but it’s still filtered through me. »

Éditions du Mont-Blanc should publish Alpine Rising in French over the coming months under a title that remains to be determined.

Alpine Rising

Bernadette McDonald

The Mountaineers Books

272 pages