Apple growing | A good harvest, but less nutritious than before

Apple growers are calling for more government support to increase local production, which they say has been “stagnant” for some years. At the same time, a study reveals that the apple has lost nearly 70% of its nutrient content compared to the wild fruit from which it descends.

Delphine Belzile
The Press

“We are really happy”

This year, unlike the last hot and dry summers, producers benefited from rainy conditions. “We end up with big fruits. We are really happy. We have a very big harvest,” says Gaétan Gilbert, co-owner of Le Gros Pierre orchard in the Eastern Townships. The temperature plays a key role in the harvest, which is in danger when it is too cold in winter and spring, and when severe frosts occur, explains the apple grower.

Several conditions

The Pommeraie orchard in Laval has tried to stick mainly to biological fungicides. “There are varieties that [les] accept less well, but there are many varieties that are beautiful. It’s really beautiful,” says Hugues Bernier, owner of the orchard. Lack of rain in July, however, prevented some apple varieties from reaching the desired size, he adds. A good harvest requires a regular supply of water with temperatures below 5°C during the night, followed by bright sunshine, specifies Éric Rochon, president of the Quebec Apple Producers.

Domestication of the apple

The apple was domesticated more than 3,000 years ago, says a study conducted by Dalhousie University in Nova Scotia. The fruit we grow today comes mainly from Kazakhstan, imported by people who migrated from Central Asia to other continents, says Thomas Davies, one of the lead researchers in the study. People who migrated took their favorite apples with them, often the “biggest”, “sweetest” and “most colorful”, he explains on the phone.

Traditional Quebec apples

In Quebec, more than ten varieties of apples are now grown. Éric Rochon notes McIntosh, Spartan, Empire and Cortland as traditional apple varieties, available year-round in markets. Over the past 15 years, some 5 million bushels of apples have been harvested each year, the equivalent of 95 million kilos. In 2020, the Quebec apple market generated some $67 million, according to the Quebec Apple Producers.

Apple production stagnates

Some 50% of apples sold in Quebec are produced in the province, points out Éric Rochon. The other half come mainly from Ontario and Washington State in the United States, he says. In the midst of the election campaign, the Quebec Apple Producers are asking the government for support in order to increase their market share to 70% of total sales in the province. They want to obtain $30 million over six years to increase food self-sufficiency and local purchasing, underlines Éric Rochon.

Modernization of orchards

The Quebec Apple Producers are also asking for a modernization and replanting program to achieve sales targets. “You have to leave the apple tree about five years before it produces apples,” explains Éric Rochon. It is extremely long and expensive. New varieties of apples are now available on the market, which appeals to consumers who are looking for variety. “We would have to remodel our four traditional varieties and change the portion of the pie we produce,” says Éric Rochon. He wants to see an increase in the production of crisp, juicy and firm apples like Honeycrisp, Gala and Ambrosia.

The evolution of the wild fruit

The characteristics of the apple have evolved, even profoundly changed, since the beginnings of its domestication. Apples grown today weigh more than three times the weight of the original wild apples and are 43% less acidic, the Dalhousie University study found. Firmness, high sugar content, high weight and low bitterness are properties sought after by producers and consumers, according to the researchers. “The changes observed between wild apples and cultivated apples are a direct result of artificial selection by humans,” explains Thomas Davies.

70% less phenolic content

Unfortunately, domesticated apples have almost 70% less phenolic content than the wild fruit, a “really striking” observation, according to Thomas Davies. The phenolic content of apples can prevent the development of diabetes and certain cancers, while ensuring better cardiovascular health, underlines the researcher. “On the one hand, we produce more delicious apples. On the other hand, we lose their nutrient content through the process of artificial selection. »

With the collaboration of Rokhaya Yade