This text is part of the special book Plaisirs
Italian having grown up here, he made his classes in kitchens of more or less great renown. If we add to this a vegetarian wife, it is not surprising that Massimo Piedimonte’s celebrations are tinged with his Italian influences, in the spirit as well as on the plates, while drawing on other sources of inspiration. . Let’s dive into his world!
Massimo Piedimonte has the typical Italian charm, assurance and generosity. But the chef, who grew up here, also has the curiosity and open-mindedness that we attribute to Quebecers. Destined to pursue higher education, he, against all odds, embraced the profession of cook, which led him from small pizzerias to restaurants Apollo, Barroco, Maison Boulud, the iconic Noma (in Denmark) and the Mouso. After 15 years spent working for others, five months ago he opened his own restaurant, Cabaret l’Enfer, with the ambition to honor the Italian culinary tradition, while revisiting it with his signature. exploratory and mostly Quebec ingredients.
What does the Christmas period mean to you?
Spontaneously, I would say above all the family. Ever since I was little, Christmas has meant big family gatherings, long hours around the table, lots of food and wine, laughter and dancing. It’s really a party! And yet, my job often made me miss these appointments, just like others throughout the year. So, now that I’m a father, these gatherings mean even more to me, because I rarely get to see all these people and I want to create memories for my children.
How is your December 24 going?
As I now have a large house, it is I who receive! I generally organize myself to have brunch and spend some time with my sister, then my parents join us and we all prepare the evening meal together, which will bring together 30 to 40 members of my family and that of my wife. There are also more and more children every year, I love that! It’s a real pleasure to watch them grow.
Let’s talk about serious things. What are you eating that night?
My mother is a woman of tradition, so it’s Italy and home cooking that are in the spotlight on December 24th. We always have plenty of fish on the table. My mother prepares scallops, salmon en papillote with vegetables (al cartoccio), mussels and seafood. We never eat meat that night for religious reasons. On the other hand, we prepare pasta, including ravioli with squash and sage and, of course, lasagna. For my part, I am making a small departure from tradition with my salmon in a crust, which is much appreciated. Then, we finish the meal with desserts, such as tortas (cakes of different kinds, not pies) and another must, crostoli, small flaky and fried Italian pastries sprinkled with icing sugar. Besides, you should never wear black on December 24, otherwise you’ll be covered in sugar at the end of the evening!
Does the party continue on the following days?
For Italians who don’t work during the Holidays, yes, absolutely. Every day, from December 25 to 31, invitations rain down because everyone wants to receive. For my part, on December 25, I am now going to my wife’s family. Previously, it happened in mine, with a simpler Italian-Quebec meal, where you could find roast turkey or chicken as well as pasta, cold meats and Italian cheeses.
And what does your end of the year look like?
December 31 is usually with friends when I’m not working. But the 1er January, I always do it with my family, because it’s important for us to start the year together, whether it’s for lunch or dinner. We treat ourselves with caviar, a Bocuse omelet, tartars, etc. But we never forget to serve cotechini, a sausage made from pork rinds which symbolizes money and good fortune, which we serve with lentils and grain mustard. That way, we are sure to be full of luck for the year that begins!
Finally, what would be the Italian Christmas meal that you would serve at your restaurant?
I would first cook stuffed mussels with saffron sauce (cozze ripiene), a classic dish from the Italian coast of Puglia full of textures and colors that can serve as a starter or a meal. Then, for the main course, it would take pasta, of course! There are always some on my menu. I recently created anolinis, a traditional stuffed egg pasta from Parma, replacing the usual stewed beef stuffing with an airy sea bass mousse. And as I like to surprise, I accompanied them with a tasty Tuscan tomato sauce with bread… and a super Tuscan from Ruffino! You wouldn’t expect this pairing to work, as it’s quite a powerful red wine, but it does. Finally, for dessert, I would pay tribute to the crostolis of my mother by dipping them in a white chocolate cream and drinking a good glass of prosecco DOC.
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