This text is part of the special book Plaisirs
Pretty, Amsterdam is without a doubt. Between its 17th century canalse century listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, its floating houses and its architectural riches from different eras, this city where cycling is king is easily discovered at the pace of our steps, particularly in autumn, when tourists are less numerous.
Early in the late summer morning, Spinoza is beginning to have company. As merchants prepare their stalls at the Waterlooplein flea market – “Waterloo square” in Dutch, in honor of the battle of the same name won by the United Kingdom of the Netherlands and its allies – a man on a bicycle, in business attire, hair in the wind and a smile on her lips, brushes against the bronze statue erected in the Jewish quarter. A father and his daughter — without protective helmets, like the first — follow him closely, along the Zwanenburgwal canal. Open since 1885, the neighborhood market is the oldest in the country. You can unearth second-hand clothes as well as trinkets, books and old cameras, a stone’s throw from the town hall and the Rembrandt museum. Visitors are still few in number to stroll through the area at this early hour, but soon, tourist buses will stop there.
To fully enjoy a walk in the capital of the Netherlands, getting up early is an excellent idea. In the middle of the day, navigating between rolling vehicles, whether bicycles, cars or scooters, is sometimes an obstacle course. Add to that the trams — arguably the most pleasant means of transport for the longest distances — and the pedestrian sometimes feels that two eyes are not enough. The rickety bicycles of the tourists mingle with the well-rehearsed ballet of the Dutch on two wheels, easily spotted by their street clothes and their speed.
Exceptional museums
In the museum district, a twenty-minute walk from Waterlooplein, the giant letters “I Amsterdam” in front of which tourists liked to pose so much have disappeared from the landscape. In order to counter the overcrowding in the sector, the City decided in 2018 to move them to unknown areas on a sporadic basis.
Even without those iconic letters in front, the Rijksmuseum remains among the most photogenic buildings, inside and out. It is in this building erected by Pierre Cuypers at the end of the 19the century that we can see in particular The milk girlpainted in the 17the century by Johannes Vermeer, on which experts have recently discovered hidden objects, and The night watch by Rembrandt. Created in 1642, the huge canvas has been restored since 2019 within the museum gallery itself. Visitors who do not have the opportunity to visit the site can take a look on the Internet. Although you can’t snoop around its alleys, the library that bears the name of the museum’s architect is also worth seeing.
A few minutes’ walk away, the Stedelijk Museum focuses on the themes of industrialization, colonialism and emancipation around historical movements. The arrangement of paintings by Dutch and Indonesian artists during the colonial era is particularly interesting. Facing each other, the realities of the time are revealed in very different ways depending on one’s point of view. If the works of Marc Chagall, Piet Mondriaan, Pablo Picasso and Kazimir Malevich remain fascinating, observing the gap in perceptions between European and Asian creators is undoubtedly one of the most powerful experiences of the museum dedicated to modern art. and contemporary.
To visit the popular Anne Frank House, where theBuyerhuis (the secret annex) and the famous diary, it is better to book as far in advance as possible. In order to better understand the context in which the teenager and her family grew up, a guided tour with guide Jeroen van Nes, who grew up in the same neighborhood, is an excellent option. Anne Frank’s story serves as a jumping-off point for a host of war-related topics.
Fewer vices, more green
Often blamed when talking about overtourism, Amsterdam has tried different approaches in recent years to ward off visitors who are more interested in its reputation as a city of all vices than in its real attractions. In 2021, a tax was also introduced for flights departing from the Netherlands. To further limit the number of visitors, the passenger tax could drop from 7.95 euros (CA$10.55) to 28.58 euros (CA$38) per ticket from the 1er January 2023. The objective is to encourage travelers to opt for more sustainable means of transport such as the train, but also to limit noise pollution.
More than ever, the environment is on the agenda. Among the greenest destinations in Europe, the Netherlands is betting on more responsible tourism. Inspired by Indonesia, Hotel Jakarta is one of Amsterdam’s gems, right on the spot where the Stoomvaart-Maatschappij Nederland, which operated regular services to the Dutch East Indies during colonial times, had its offices. Built with sustainable materials, the carbon-neutral establishment has many indoor gardens watered with rainwater. Solar panels have been installed on the roof to provide the energy needed to circulate water through the building. The air conditioning and heating work thanks to a heat pump system fed by water from the river.
No doubt, even if the traces of its past remain very present, Amsterdam is resolutely turned towards the future.
The author would like to thank Air Transat, Netherlands Board of Tourism & Convention and I Amsterdam for organizing this trip.
This special content was produced by the Special Publications team of the To have to, pertaining to marketing. The drafting of To have to did not take part.