This text is part of the special book Plaisirs
An island in the Far North within driving distance, Parc national des Grands-Jardins evolves between boreal forest and taiga, in a bewitching Nordic atmosphere. Especially on long hikes.
Grands-Jardins: strange name for a resolutely northern territory. Its name, it owes it to a certain William Hume Blake, project manager of the private hunting and fishing club La Roche made up of vacationers from Ontario and America for whom this vegetation resembles an English garden. This sector became a few years later, in 1895, part of the Parc des Laurentides – a name that is still rooted in usage. Famous for its Mont-du-Lac-des-Cygnes trail, one of the busiest in the network, it is particularly breathtaking in winter due to its fabulous snow cover and its exceptional ecosystem enclosed in the Charlevoix biosphere reserve. . A long hike, with a night in a refuge, allows you to grasp the immensity of the territory from its bare peaks. Unique atmosphere guaranteed just an hour and a half drive from Quebec.
Introduction
We couldn’t have come across a better day to experience a long winter hike. Departure at dusk from the La Galette relay, located at an altitude of 700 meters; even under a cloudless sky, the fading light forces us to walk in the halo of a headlamp to complete the short distance that separates us from the rustic Jean-Pressé camp. At the edge of the Malbaie pond, this chalet is ideal for starting a long hike, because it provides optimal comfort in the middle of nowhere: propane stove and refrigerator, in particular. We sleep so well in a rustic camp! No need for auxiliary heating, the stove does the job perfectly provided you stuff it with large logs that will burn until dawn. Tasting of rehydrated Thai pasta in front of the hypnotic choreography of the flames.
Immersed in rusticity
Snowshoes on, it’s a joyful start the next day to cover the six kilometers to one of the two Pointu refuges. We will then take all the time to admire the contrasting landscapes, fruits of the last glaciation, which mark out the marked path with a slight drop. We gradually sink into the boreal forest and its big snow-laden pines, before returning to the edge of the pond to discover spectacular views of the Laurentian massif. The Pointu refuge has a Scandinavian air with its wooden logs and sloping roof. Its charm is due to its simplicity: six bunk beds, an efficient wood stove – a good ember is already waiting for us when we arrive – and a few clotheslines to dry our belongings. The kitchen ? On the stove. The water ? Melted snow. Toilet ? The becosse a few meters from the refuge. The next day, past Lac Pointu, the boreal forest gradually gives way to the taiga and its vast landscapes. Back towards La Galette, the path enters the burnt area, witness to the successive fires that have marked this grandiose territory swept by violent winds. Magic.
Practical information
You can download the trail map from the Avenza home application to consult it on site without a connection. Other long hiking circuits are possible, group accommodation included. Hut rental rate: $28.25 per night and per person. Equipment rental available. sepaq.com/pq/grj/
For a successful experience
This special content was produced by the Special Publications team of the Duty, relating to marketing. The drafting of Duty did not take part.