This text is part of the special Pleasures notebook
Ah, the old classics! In a culinary scene where it is sometimes difficult to follow the rhythm of openings and closings, it is good to know that we still have benchmarks on which the years have not had any influence. Cross-visit of two of these institutions, preserved or reinvented, whose name alone evokes a long history, iconic dishes and a certain vision of catering: Bonaparte and Moishes.
40 years of French tradition
When we find ourselves in front of the Bonaparte building, located on a small street in Old Montreal, we are not surprised that the boutique hotel and the restaurant it houses are still, after 41 years of activity, considered a well-kept neighborhood secret. Even the facade of this institution, sober and discreet, does not foreshadow the experience that can be had there.
However, once through the door of this establishment, we quickly understand why many European tourists, as well as stars like Halle Berry, Charles Aznavour, Julia Roberts, Madonna, Angelina Jolie and Lionel Richie have come here. The Bonaparte constitutes a sort of enclave outside of time. With its particular division (three fairly intimate rooms), its Renaissance-style decor, its large chandeliers, its moldings and gilding, its white tablecloths and its cozy atmosphere, this restaurant contrasts with the effervescence and “trendyness” of the agenda in Old Montreal.
“Many other businesses have opened and closed their doors around us, but we are still here,” proudly confirms the director, Martin Bédard. The man did it 35 years ago, his first steps in service in this establishment, before treading the boards of Broadway in musical comedies and working for several star-studded tables around the world. Ultimately, he chose to return to his alma mater, which seems to retain just as much loyalty among its staff as its customers.
“Our customers come once a week or once a year, but they always come back,” says Mr. Bédard. Some of them don’t even look at the menu, they know in advance what they want to eat here and they are sure to find it. »
Indeed, the Bonaparte map also escapes temporality. Lobster bisque, rabbit bundle, foie gras crème brûlée, tartare, duck breast, veal chop, profiterole… The great classics of French cuisine are one with this restaurant, right down to the presentation of the plates, with vegetables turned and generous sauces made from reduced stocks. So much so that we feel like we have been transported to a good French brasserie, Parisian waiters included. A position fully assumed by management.
“We chose to remain classic,” explains Mr. Bédard. At Bonaparte, there is no fusion cuisine, no surprises. I often say, if you want a Caesar salad, you better go somewhere else, because everyone else makes it. But what sets us apart is precisely not giving in to the temptation to do like others. »
Without focusing on passing fashions, the Bonaparte has nevertheless added a small bar to its decor in recent years. He has since offered cocktails, including 12 created on the occasion of his 40the anniversary, following the revolutionary calendar that adorns its walls. More French than that, impossible.
The Rebirth of Moishes
As soon as you say the name Moishes, all Montrealers, but also a good number of business people, tourists and personalities from around the world, know that it is a temple of steak. The establishment was founded in 1938 by Moishe Ligther. Legend has it that he won at poker against his boss. Since then, this upscale restaurant on Saint-Laurent Boulevard has built its reputation on the quality of its dry-aged and then grilled beef.
Bought in 2018 by the Grandio Group, we did not know how this iconic establishment would move its home to the International District of Montreal without losing its soul. A pandemic later, Moishes 2.0 finally opened its doors on June 14, 2023, in a bright, glass-enclosed space, the polar opposite of the windowless basement it previously occupied.
“A lot of things have changed,” confirms the general director of Moishes, Jean-Michel Bourassa, who accepted without hesitation the challenge of reviving Moishes. “For two years,” he says, “we worked side by side with the former owners so that this new address reflected the previous one. We wanted to recreate the warmth, comfort and unpretentious quality of Moishes. The “wow” effect that people were looking for on site. And I can say that we succeeded. »
Indeed, the chic establishment is full, even during the week. If its new appearance is much more modern, its designers have taken care to integrate numerous nods to its past. There are original chandeliers, a rework of the tin tiles from the old ceiling, a mural telling its history, etc. And although the white tablecloths on the tables have disappeared, the personalized service and the essential dishes of the steak house remained the same.
So Moishes is still synonymous with USDA Prime cuts of beef, one of the best in the world, aged and grilled to perfection. You choose your favorite (rib, strip steak, filet mignon, etc.), then a sauce and accompaniments such as the traditional Monte-Carlo potato (stuffed), grilled vegetables, or even addictive fried onions. And to stay in the carnivorous logic, you can add a marrow bone or rack of lamb to your tasting.
This strong tradition does not prevent chef Murteza Talu, originally from Turkey, from putting his two cents on the menu with starters and fish, seafood or vegetarian dishes. “If old customers come back, they will be sure to find their classics,” he explains. But those who don’t want meat will also find interesting options. »
Finally, let us highlight the special care given to the restaurant’s cellar. If the old Moishes already offered beautiful bottles, its new version, managed in sommellerie by Thomas Carney, has 800 references which are worth the trip. And the latter does not hide his ambition to seek the Grand Award of Wine Spectator. So, while remaining classic, we can reinvent ourselves… and aim even higher!
This content was produced by the Special Publications team at Duty, relating to marketing. The writing of the Duty did not take part.