This text is part of the special Pleasures notebook
Produce tea locally? This is the challenge that entrepreneur and biologist Julien Drouin-Bouffard took on in order to satisfy the appetite of local consumers for this little Asian treasure. Attention hot drink lovers!
Since last spring, the 37-year-old biologist has been marketing willow herb teas under the Artisan du vivant brand, a pioneer species that he learned about during his studies in Rimouski. “It’s a plant that has everything going for it,” says Julien Drouin-Bouffard. It is one of the most vigorous and abundant plants in Quebec. In the south of the province, we know it less. But as soon as you go a little further north, they are everywhere. It is part of the landscape, as much as the spruce. »
In 2018, he discovered that willowherb has been used for centuries in Russia to make tea. He then decided to do some tests, before locating the public lands of Kamouraska and knocking on the doors of landowners, who gave him access to the plant in exchange for his very first teas.
“The first year, we did two weeks of production in July. Then, each year, we increased by one week. »
After a few years of perfecting his techniques, Julien decided to invest full time in local teas. He imports from Asia all the equipment he needs to move up a gear.
Transformation makes tea
“This surprises a lot of people,” says the entrepreneur, who produced around 500 kg of tea this year. But for a long time, he assures, the willow herb cohabited with the Camellia sinensis (today the best-known plant species in the field) in the international tea trade.
The plant does not contain caffeine. A feature that appeals to the vast majority of its customers. “Fireweed is not a stimulating plant. However, it is not sedative, like many plants that are used in the composition of herbal tea. It is truly a neutral plant, which can be consumed at any time of the day. »
Why call it tea then? “It’s not the molecule that makes the tea, it’s the method used. In principle, you can do this with any plant. But willowherb has really proven itself. »
As tradition dictates, the willow herb leaves are allowed to wilt a few hours at most after picking. The operation allows them to soften, before they are mechanically rolled. Rolling breaks the cellular structure of the plant and releases the enzymes responsible for its oxidation. It is during this stage that the magic happens, and the aromas of the tea develop. Drying at high temperatures ultimately destroys the enzyme responsible for oxidation, and gives the tea its final character.
Depending on the degree of oxidation of the leaf, very different flavors are obtained. We find herbaceous notes in Wulong tea and in black tea the roundness and depth created by prolonged oxidation. As for green tea, which is not oxidized, it recalls the typical aromas of grilled green vegetables.
“It’s disconcerting how reminiscent the taste is of Asian tea. Many people can’t tell the difference. And if connoisseurs make it, they appreciate it. »
And again, several tea masters he met this fall in Taiwan were confused at the sight of the dried leaves…
A vision of the future
The young entrepreneur already dreams of expanding his range of products in order to offer a more varied choice to consumers by drawing inspiration from sencha, matcha, Pu-erh (aged tea)… Enough to delight tea lovers who wish drink local and reduce their ecological footprint.
“I try to bring out the best in the plant and revolutionize the world of hot infusions in Quebec, in accordance with my social and environmental values. »
Julien believes that there is plenty of room for other entrepreneurs who would like to embark, like him, on the adventure of Quebec teas. For the moment, he remains the only one to sell it in the province. Victim of the immense popularity of his products, he plans to triple his production each year for a few years. To do this, he is moving his production to Abitibi, where willowherb promises to be abundant after the historic forest fires which ravaged the territory last summer.
Investments in research and development will also allow it to confirm the anti-inflammatory properties of willow herb, which are very promising.
This content was produced by the Special Publications team at Duty, relating to marketing. The writing of the Duty did not take part.