Wines of the week

I repeat it over and over again: the alcohol content of a wine has nothing to do with its quality. Here are two around 11% that are very qualitative, in addition to offering a lot of pleasure and authenticity, in very different styles. And a third more powerful, but harmonious, where the alcohol is perfectly integrated. More than anything, it’s the balance that counts!

Affordable: a grüner veltliner of choice

Fred Loimer is one of the best winemakers in Austria. He took over the family estate in 1997, in the Kamptal region, northwest of Vienna. The vineyard converted to biodynamics in 1996 and since then the wines have continued to improve in quality. The range of wines produced is wide – the estate covers almost 80 hectares – but all are made with the same care. Its entry-level grüner veltliner therefore represents very good value for money. A pretty nose opens with aromas of pear, peach, herbs and spices. The mouth is round, spicy, but shows tone thanks to a fresh acidity. Even the finish is noteworthy with saline notes stretching it. Very well made, and quite representative of the Lower Austrian grüner veltliner. Fried fish, green vegetables, lentil salad.

Weingut Loimer Lois Grüner Vetliner Niederösterreich 2022, $20.25 (11990492), 11.5%, organic

Aging: 2 or 3 years

Discovery: wind of freshness

Bianka and Daniel Schmitt are the fourth generation at the head of the family vineyard in Rheinhessen, where they cultivate 16 hectares of vines biodynamically. This important wine-growing region stretching south of Mainz, which has produced its share of industrial wines, is today one of the most dynamic in the country, a veritable nursery for organic and biodynamic estates. The Frei Körper Kultur Weiss is, like these changes that are taking place in the region, a breath of fresh air. Dry, very light, crisp, and really fun. The nose is charming with notes of elderberry, orange blossom, citrus and pineapple. Lively and very fresh, with a slight tannic chewiness that adds a little relief. Natural wine in all its simplicity, very well made and above all delicious. To be enjoyed with a bunch of friends.

Schmitt Frei Körper Kultur Weiss 2022, $27.10, 1 L (14504939), 11%, organic

Laying down: to drink

Classic: a well-controlled Viognier

Viognier is a very aromatic grape variety, with moderate acidity, like Gewurztraminer. Like the latter, it can produce boring, oily wines. It is a difficult variety to grow and vinify, but when mastered well, it produces wines with a very distinct character. This is the case here with the white Côtes du Rhône from Maison Guigal, where Viognier represents 60% of the cuvée, supplemented with Roussanne, Marsanne, Clairette, Bourboulenc and Grenache blanc. We find all the charm of Viognier, without any excess. A very aromatic nose offers notes of orange, peach, jasmine and lily of the valley. The palate is rich, spicy, enhanced by noble bitterness that gives it freshness. Very harmonious, it is a wine made for the table. Try it with bisque or lobster roll, chicken and apricot tajine, macaroni and cheese.

Guigal Côtes du Rhône 2022, $22.15 (290296), 14%

Aging: 1 or 2 years