A few wines to unearth and taste before they disappear from the shelves.
Sierra de Tolono 2021, Rioja, Spain ($22.70 – 15151186)
These Spaniards will always confuse me with their qualitative offers at bargain prices.amigo ! This organic Tempranillo, coloured, rich, integrated and well framed, with its ripe, fresh and appetizing tannins, bears witness to this. One more time. The paella will only be more seduced. (5) *** ©
Le P’tit Landra rosé 2021, Ventoux, France ($24 – 14966199)
This natural rosé, as dry as it is light, is pure enchantment. Grenache adorns it while giving it a tactile satin feel, the quilting of which gives the whole a fine thickness. The addition of cinsault and clairette also opens up a perspective of freshness that prolongs the finish for a long time. This “big” Landra is pure delight! (5) ***
“Les Maselles” Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Domaine Tardieu-Gal, Touraine Chenonceaux, Loire, France ($26.95 – 15094898)
There is an expression that is as subtle as it is fond of this organic Sauvignon Blanc with floral nuances of rose and grapefruit of the same shade; intimate dry white, like a conversation in halftones revealing much more than what is revealed in muted. The finale settles in, with freshness, opening on a discourse that obviously does not want to dry up. The little fresh goat’s cheese salad will win him over. (5) ***
Saint-Amour “Les Bambins” 2021, Bertrand Family, Beaujolais, France ($43.50 –14885794)
Another candidate from the stable of the Wino agency, whose range seems visibly to be oriented towards thoroughbreds where natures and other bios are in the spotlight. Obviously, this vintage is up to the task, on a whole of high palatability, barely supported by alcohol, a particularly tactile and lively “touch of the mouth”, but which is, alas, not given for all that. You have to deserve it. A youngster bottled in the spring (2022) to capture its first fruity steps, to be washed down generously with fine local charcuterie. (5) © ***1/2
Riesling “Stein”, André Rohrer, Alsace, France ($44.50 – 15116225)
The Riesling sparkles with a brilliance that I had never seen before with this cru whose marls and sandstones of the subsoil provide it with a fine and almost electrifying sap on the palate. An organic dry white wine, both airy and substantial, with this taste of candied lemon which traces and remarkably lengthens the finish. Lots of race here. We won’t soon forget it! (5+) © ****
Pinot Noir Rosé 2022, Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Germany ($22.25 – 14460884)
The Germanic balance is once again achieved with this pinot noir, very light in terms of alcohol content, but finely savory in terms of the realism of the fruity flavours. To put it candidly, this organic cuvée enchants and frees you from the weight of worries and that other bullshit that makes life less rosy. Too bad there are no other products available from this great house. Hurry up, every dream has an end! (5) ***
Corte Pavone 2020, Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy ($26.70 – 15117199)
This brunello baby has everything of the big brother, but in a more accessible way without being less serious in terms of execution. A still very youthful Sangiovese whose musculature remains apparent under the fleshy fruitiness, endowed with freshness and woody, spicy and undergrowth nuances that make it suitable for a beautiful cutlet of forest veal. A good hour of carafe is essential. (5) © ***
We Love Pet Nat, Weingut Weszeli, Austria ($34.25 – 15108217)
“We like natural sparkling. This organic cuvée from the Weszeli family cannot be said better! This bubble is wonderfully lively and full of character, with that touch of cut hay, verbena and apple, but above all because it has perfect integrity. Not given, but no hesitation either to multiply the opportunities to “make the roteuse fart”, as the expression goes. (5) ***1/2
Sancerre “Marnes et Caillottes” 2020, Jean-Max Roger, Loire, France ($37 – 14960070)
This dry white shines with this sort of diffuse glow which is reminiscent of the play of lights orchestrated by the painter Vermeer in his painting Girl with a Pearl Earring. In terms of the atmosphere, we are in the antechamber of waiting, in this still space where the Sauvignon Blanc glides gracefully over the surface before penetrating further, subtly spreading a fruitiness with floral and lemony nuances, all pigmented with a fine acidity conferred by the terroir spirit. Moment of grace to treat yourself to a nice piece of fresh halibut, although it has unfortunately become overpriced. (5) ***1/2
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