A few wines to unearth and taste before they disappear from the shelves.
Chateau Le Gardera 2020, Bordeaux Superior, France ($19.60 –14783544)
Switched to organic for more than a decade, this property has evolved while ensuring to deliver a denser and more consistent fruitiness which is also no stranger to the solar profile of the vintage. For the moment, the woody prevails and somewhat masks the whole. A few smoked ribs will accompany it to minimize the effect. (5) © ** 1/2
Ferrari Brut, Trento, Italy ($25 – 10496898)
At Ferrari, the bubble is queen and makes the man happy like a king! A business started by Julio Ferrari at the beginning of the century and which quickly became a family affair when Bruno Lunelli took over the reins in 1952. Since then, his sons, Franco, Gino and Mauro, the oenologist, have created bubbles among the best in Italy and compete favorably with the great lords of Reims and Épernay. Their secret? Top-notch Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs picked at different altitudes from the best plots and a very sharp attention to detail in the cellar. More than 4.5 million bottles on three levels of excellence, including this 100% Chardonnay cuvée with clean, frank and dynamic fruitiness of poached pear, green apple, lemon and warm bread crust. At this price, it is worth any French crémant. (5) ***
Wild Fruit 2020, Le Clos de Caveau, Vacqueyras, Rhone, France ($29.70 – 13750370)
One has the impression of biting into the hard rock of a characterful terroir. Not easy at first glance, I know, but the winemaker has tried to make it easier for you by liquefying everything and allowing the wild, ripe and spicy black fruits to develop a sap that is both taut and full. An organic that has the mouth of the place and whose evolution in the bottle is very promising. On site, the winegrowers love to serve braised wild boar on this Grenache/Syrah blend, not out of spite, but to emphasize that it is much better on the plate than in the vineyard. (5+) © *** 1/2
Burgundy 2020, Philippe Chavy, Burgundy, France ($43.25 – 15116823)
The price will be surprising, for a regional Burgundy, but here it is, the nose and the mouth eloquently confirm that the juices are 90% Pulligny appellation while the balance is Meursault. No convoluted detours, but real Chardonnay, bursting with sap and density, with this tremendous vivacity that splits the fruitiness to infinity, leaving the mouth not only very fresh, but also with magnificent bitterness. This in a comfortable solar vintage. We seriously enjoy ourselves here. (5) © ****
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