Wines of the week

There is no doubt that Quebec today makes the best wines in its very short viticultural history. But it’s still a small industry, with very small volumes. And, gratifying fact, some domains see all their production fly away in a few hours. Some good Quebec wines are to be discovered; here is a suggestion, as well as two terroirs from elsewhere to taste.

Local

dapper rosé

La Cantina is a vineyard planted in Oka between 2015 and 2022 by Daniel Lalande, owner of the Vignoble de la Rivière du Chêne in Saint-Eustache. Thirty hectares, which benefit from the moderating influence of the Lac des Deux Montagnes, are home to chardonnay, pinot noir, riesling and vidal. Following a harsh winter, the 2022 harvest was very poor, which is why the vineyard decided not to offer this cuvée at the SAQ. The little Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling harvested therefore went all out in this 2022 cuvée, completed with nearly 20% Vidal. Very pale, the wine offers a delicate nose of peach and pear, herbs and citrus. The palate is light, with a caressing texture, but also carried by a lively acidity and very light bitterness. Ideal with a shrimp, watermelon and feta salad.

La Cantina Vallée d’Oka Rosé du Calvaire Vin du Québec 2022, $20.00 (13835648), 13%, offered in certain grocery stores, micro-cavists, at the vineyard and on its website.

Laying down: to drink

Affordable

Charming and vibrant

This wine is also a bargain: it is much more complete than many others at the same price. We know the quality of Clos Bellane, whose wines I have praised to you many times. The rosé charms again in 2022 with a very pale color and an attractive, fine and very fresh nose, which evokes peach, raspberry, flowers and garrigue. The palate shows substance, with a slight fatness, relief and even a certain chewiness on the finish. The whole, carried by a vibrant acidity, is above all full of radiance and vitality. Very harmonious, this 100% Grenache is very drinkable and will be at its place as an aperitif or at the table. Grilled salmon, ratatouille, tomato pie, pan bagnat or niçoise salad.

Clos Bellane Altitude Rosé Côtes du Rhône 2022, $21.45 (12513567), 12.5%, organic

Aging: 1 or 2 years

Classic

A safe choice

You can buy Georges Descombes wines with your eyes closed. His irreproachable work ethic, in the vineyard as well as in the cellar, gives birth to real wines from the terroirs, authentic and transparent, which are always a pleasure to drink. The Brouilly 2020 is no exception to the rule. From the greatest cru, on the surface, of Beaujolais, and the most southerly, it offers all the fruity charm. The nose is alluring, full of small red fruits. Full and satiating on the palate, it shows great brightness and freshness, with light, very fine tannins that stretch out on the finish. Delicate floral and herbaceous notes add relief. Super harmonious and delicious, with also substance, depth and complexity. Chicken liver salad, beetroot salad, steak frites, roast chicken.

Aging: 2 or 3 years

Georges Descombes Brouilly 2020, $32.00 (12494028), 13.5%