United Kingdom | London stopover | The Press

Whether for a one-day stopover or a week-long stay, there are never too many good places to discover London and its surroundings. On the program: a quick getaway by the sea, 90 minutes by train from the capital, and a visit to a district of West London in full swing, Shepherd’s Bush. As say the British : “ Lovely! »

Getaway to Margate: the sea 90 minutes from London

As soon as you leave the station, you understand why the city of Margate is flashing on the radar of Londoners.

Our first steps lead us to the edge of the sea, in the rue Marine Gardens and its row of acidulous storefronts which shelter arcades and ice cream bars. A very atmosphere vintageaccentuated by the presence of the Dreamland amusement park which welcomed its first visitors in… 1880!

This small seaside resort in Kent, 90 minutes by train from London, has absolutely everything you need for a successful getaway: the sea, good restaurants, state-of-the-art hotels, original shops and even a small museum of contemporary art with breathtaking views of the Atlantic. Who says better ?

We understand why Sam Mendes set the scene for his latest film there, Empire of Light (available for rental on digital platforms), featuring Colin Firth and the formidable Olivia Colman.

The bracing air of Margate

The English have come to breathe the salty air of Margate since the 1730s, when the city was located on the island of Thanet, which became a peninsula over time. Margate has a rich history that envelops us as soon as we enter the old town.

The nifty little museum in Margate will tell you that the market square, now frequented by tourists and local hipsters, welcomed its first stalls in 1630! The Margate Old Market, a closed market this time, is home to the tiniest pub in England. Two more customers and we’re cramped. A few blocks away, you could find a beautiful piece of clothing by Isabel Marant or Gianni in one of the many second-hand clothing boutiques. Mandatory stop at the Margate Bookshop with its beautiful turquoise blue storefront and tiny coffee corner. We exclaim in front of the choices of the bookseller – Rachel Cusk, Rebecca Solnit and Nora Ephron on the same shelf! — who could certainly be our friend.

Margate seen by Turner

Bubbling with creativity, Margate has several art galleries and artists’ studios. Arguably the most famous associated with the coastal town is Grand Master Turner who resided in Margate when he was 11 years old. He returned there as an adult to paint the dramatic sunsets that melt into the sea. Today, a museum of contemporary art bearing his name stands on the site of the rooming house where he lived.

An unmissable address in Margate, the Turner Contemporary offers a breathtaking and unique view of the Atlantic and gives pride of place to artists from the region.

The most famous, Tracey Emin, renowned artist and member of the Young British Artists movement, returned to live in her hometown in 2017. Her large studio hosts young artists in residence and exhibitions that attract visitors. rich and famous from London.

And if you think you recognize Banksy’s line on one of the walls of the Dreamland amusement park, you’re not mistaken: it is indeed a work by the enigmatic artist, originally from Bristol, England. The work titled Valentine’s Day Mascara appeared on a wall in Margate on February 14 and speaks out against violence against women. As it incorporates a real freezer, we moved it between the walls of the amusement park so that it remains accessible.

Margate has many facets, but it is above all a city of music with many bars where you can listen to music, in addition to being the host of the Margate Soul Festival for 21 years. The musicians – discouraged by the astronomical rents of the capital – are numerous to come to settle there. Among them: Pete Doherty, who has opened a hotel, two bars and a recording studio in the Cliftonville district, where wine bars, a vinyl café and other more sophisticated businesses are appearing as the gentrification grows. The number of scaffoldings we passed on our walk leads us to believe that Margate’s transformation is far from complete.

An exciting restaurant scene

We understand why Margate has been renamed Shoreditch-by-the-Sea, a nod to the trendy district of London where the owner of Sargasso, the restaurant where we spent our Saturday evening, owns another restaurant, the Brawn. On the menu: seafood and natural wines, with an Italian touch and a jazz funk musical score. Perfect evening.

But the truth is that the choice of a restaurant was not easy so Margate has several tempting tables. We could have opted for the Buoy and Oyste, the Angela (one Michelin star) or its little sister Dory’s, a seafood bar without reservation, an excellent option for last minute decisions. For brunch, our choice fell on Wildes, a large bright room with peach walls and rattan furniture that turns into a cocktail bar in the evening.

Another sign that Margate is in turmoil: the number of boutique hotels opening their doors is on the rise, with two highly anticipated new addresses in the city center this spring. In short, with or without children, alone, as a couple or with friends, Margate is really a small town that is worth the detour.

Discover Shepherd’s Bush, in West London

Hotels are expensive in London. It’s worth straying a bit from the center to save a few bucks. Shepherd’s Bush in West London is 30 minutes from Heathrow Airport on the new Elizabeth Line, and a 30-minute walk from chic Notting Hill. An interesting option to discover a neighborhood in turmoil.

The Hoxton Hotel

There are signs that don’t lie, like the opening of a Hoxton hotel. The owners of this very trendy chain, with addresses in Europe and the United States, have the nose to identify a promising district. They were among the first to settle in Shoreditch in 2006. They opened the Hoxton Shepherd’s Bush last December, a sign that this neighborhood is on the radar. Their new hotel is welcoming and bright, you would spend the day strolling in the lobby. Another good point: it is a stone’s throw from a metro station and very well served by several bus lines.

The restaurant, Chet’s, which specializes in reinvented American-style Thai cuisine, is on the magazine’s list of London’s best restaurants Time Out. You can find a room there for less than $250, depending on the time of the season.

Shepherd’s Bush Market

In a street behind the Hoxton Hotel, there is this small open-air market where sellers of household items and clothes rub shoulders with a few food stalls. Please note, we are not at the Saint-Ouen flea market. It’s modest, but friendly.

Quite a contrast to the Westfield, the largest shopping center in Europe, which is just a few blocks away. A huge soulless “shopping center” in which there are, however, several affordable meal options. Among other things, there is a great Japanese grocery store, Ichiba Japan Center, with its small counter for eating on site. Perfect for rainy days.

Uxbridge Street

Shepherd’s Bush is a multi-ethnic neighborhood and it shows when you walk around the area, especially on Uxbridge Street. Thai, Indian, Ethiopian… The restaurant offer is varied and affordable. Through this, a few trendier addresses like Hawk’s Nest, a pizza and cocktail restaurant opened in 2020 by the owners of the chic Soho House, another sign that the neighborhood is changing.

The terrace is definitely worth a visit. We walk on Askew Road for its cafes and wine bars while Goldhawk Road reminds us a bit of Plaza Saint-Hubert with its many fabric stores through which we find other nice restaurants and pubs.