Wines of the week

The color does not say anything about the quality of a wine, nor does its alcohol content. There is a clear difference between a light wine and an aqueous wine that lacks substance. Here are three wines with a rather low alcohol content, which nevertheless demonstrate consistency, substance and a certain depth. More than anything, they are harmonious wines, which make you want a second glass. And which are ideal to accompany fish!

Affordable: minerality and salinity

The excellent Recaredo house, in the Penedès in Catalonia, produces only sparkling wines, among the best in Spain. Celler Credo is the label created by the family for still white wines, made with the same commitment to produce terroir wines: local grape varieties, organic and biodynamic viticulture, very natural vinifications. The Miranius is made 100% with Xarel-lo, a grape variety that gives wines with little fruitiness and which gives way here to a mineral and saline expression. The nose is discreet, with some citrus and pear notes, but above all seashells and sea spray, with this mineral impression. Dry, very fresh and light, it nevertheless has presence and chewiness in the mouth. The finish unfolds on citrus and saline notes. Perfect for a seafood platter, grilled fish or candied Arctic char!

Celler Credo Miranius Penedès 2021, $19.95 (12866557), 11%, organic

Aging: 3 or 4 years

Classic: good terroir, good wine

The Aligoté grape variety is widely grown in Eastern Europe (Ukraine, Moldova, Romania above all), but it is immediately associated with its terroir of origin, Burgundy. It has long been decried as poor in quality, but as is often the case, it is because it was not grown on the best terroirs, which we preferred to keep for the more profitable chardonnay and pinot noir. . A grape with a biting acidity, it indeed requires careful viticulture, and the right terroir, to produce accomplished wines, like this one, which represent excellent value for money for Burgundy. Very fine, it opens with a discreet, but very pretty nose, with accents of pear, peach, cream, with a vegetal hint that adds interest. The mouth shows a certain fatness, with a delicately creamy texture. Light, fresh and harmonious, with a hint of salinity on the finish, perfect to accompany our confit char recipe of the week.

Domaine Billard Père et Fils Bourgogne Aligoté 2021, $21.90 (13946727), 12.3%

Aging: 3 or 4 years

Treat: a red for the fish

Who says fish does not necessarily say white wine! In fact, it is especially the tannins of red wines that swear with fish and seafood. Those who have little can therefore accompany them very well. This is the case with this delicious Brouilly, made from 100% Gamay like all Beaujolais reds. With a very pale color, it offers a surprisingly discreet nose. The alluring aromas of Gamay are revealed on the palate, which shows a very beautiful fruity radiance with notes of cherry and field strawberries. Light and very fine, it nevertheless shows resistance, with grain and depth. Full of vitality, with very light tannins on the finish where mineral notes emerge. The sabayon accompanying our recipe for candied char may risk thinning the wine. Serve it instead with simply grilled Arctic char, or with tomatoes.

Chateau Cambon Brouilly 2021, $33.50 (13385931), 12%

Aging: 3 or 4 years