Mystical French Polynesia | The Press

I arrived in French Polynesia with the impression that I was going to be deeply upset by what I was going to discover there, but above all that I was going to learn a lot of things. And I was not disappointed.

For any traveler who wishes to venture into the 118 islands and 5 archipelagos of mystical French Polynesia, a first stop is essential: Papeete, the capital of the island of Tahiti, where we find the highest concentration of population, but also the international airport, the only one of this size in the region.

This is where – yes, I am aware of my luck – I was welcomed by my in-laws, who have lived there for more than 30 years.

Family or not, as soon as you set foot in Tahiti, you feel welcome. The humid air almost automatically makes us sweat, but the necklace of flowers that we put around our necks as soon as we get out of the plane compensates for this. It may sound cliché, but the hospitality of the Tahitians is simply incredible.

I spent three memorable first days in Tahiti, discovering its majestic hiking trails in the mountains, its access to the sea, its stunning beaches, its surprising peninsula, but above all, its delectable fish. But all that passed very quickly. And as soon as I arrived, I set off for the island of Moorea.

The beautiful nature

Much less urbanized, Moorea, which means the “yellow lizard” and which takes its name from a former great Tahitian chief, is best known for its sandy beaches, its heavenly diving spots and its sheer peaks. It is located very close to Tahiti, and can be reached by a simple ferry ride of about an hour. Simple but mind-boggling, should I say. Thanks to its accessibility, Moorea is also one of the busiest islands in Polynesia. It must be remembered that seeing everything in Polynesia is impossible, unless you dedicate yourself body and soul to it: its expanse is as vast as Europe, I was told in the guides on board the planes that I took from an island to the other.

In all, I stayed six days in Moorea, in what they call there a “boarding house”, at the edge of the turquoise water. What the hell.

In Moorea, you have to go through the agricultural school of Opunohu, which allows you to understand what is grown in Polynesia, but also what is eaten there, and what importance is given to it. But above all, we see breathtaking landscapes. No need to say that you also have to dive, and dive again, the coral and the marine ecosystem being one of the main attractions of this island.

Then return to Tahiti, the center of our adventure. But it was to start again better, this time towards the atoll of Fakarava. A clarification here: an atoll differs from a so-called “standard” island in that it is essentially a reef made of coral in the center of which we find a “lagoon”, these turquoise waters protected from the open sea. Outside the reef, the ocean surrounds us, as far as the eye can see.

Don’t be afraid of the sharks

Further northeast, Fakarava is located in the Tuamotu Islands, one of the five archipelagos of Polynesia. Its population is only 844 people, according to the latest censuses, but the place is full of options for tourists. My choice there fell on the Havaiki Lodge, a friendly inn on the edge of the water welcoming tourists all year round. Because in Polynesia, the seasons are all very hot, even if during our Quebec winter, it rains more often.

To the north of Fakarava, its pass – that is to say a natural opening in the coral reef – offers an extraordinary marine panorama, dominated by sharks. At first, it’s scary. But as all the locals in Fakarava have told me: don’t be afraid of the sharks. These know that they have no interest in attacking a human. It was tough at first, but I ended up swimming with six of them, so anything is possible!

Finally, the consecration of this trip occurred a few days before New Year, when I went to a “motu”, a Tahitian word designating an islet of coral covered with sand, most often in an area where sea currents are slowing down. In the literal sense, this word is defined by “cut off, separated”, the “motus” being usually isolated from the rest of the world. Off the island of Huahine, this little island had everything we needed.

It is in this rather unique atmosphere that I said goodbye to 2022, and hello to 2023. Enough to give a lot of strength to begin the next challenges of the year. This is also the main attraction of Polynesia, in my opinion: it recharges the batteries, it gives courage, but above all, it makes you want to discover it again and again.

Polynesia, Polynesians, mauruuru ! For all that you have offered me during these few weeks. As for you, dear readers, I strongly encourage you to discover this region of the world that has so much to make you dream for a long time.