“Thank you, Monsieur Aubry, for tasting and spitting for me… for us… For the rest, for my part, thanks to you, we have moved to another level, that is, tasting and drinking less, but better… and more expensive, but it’s worth the cost! left this Vincent de Boucherville in the inbox in the wake of the last post published in these pages where it was a question of being able to taste wine without swallowing a single drop.
Same fight this week, with a grocery list that isn’t one. Let us rather propose the appearance of a few shooting stars in the firmament of the ephemeral, strands of light which have widened the eyes of the heart and the mind throughout the year 2022 which is coming to an end. No doubt you have yours. On the exceptional mention of ★★★★★, only one candidate stands out among the 50 chronicles delivered this year.
Assessed in absolute terms (and not in the category), the Dominus 2018 ($392.75 – 14810864 – (5+) ©) from Bordeaux Christian Moueix, firmly planted in his Californian lands, instilled the dream in the right place and at the right time with this overwhelming sensation born of the inability to be able to fully grasp its scope. Imperishable. Special mention for this 2002 savored at the estate with its friendly technical director, Éric Kohler, on a very simple spaghetti with ragù sauce…
Great overall quality for the rest, so much so that we can say that there are hardly any bad wines left, except for a few uninspiring or sadly commercial wines that still reach the top of the sales charts. Finally, there is something for everyone. This Dominus throne this year barely above 15 other products, all rated ★★★★ 1/2 those. Here they are briefly summarized.
Condrieu La Doriane 2019, E. Guigal ($146.00 – 14728465). An aerial ballet, intangible and luminous.
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2019, Joseph Drouhin, Moulin de Vaudon, Burgundy, France ($119.50 – 14819068). A fine essence of wine, precise and electrifying, saline as one pleases.
Western Cape Granite Chenin Blanc 2018, Mullineux, South Africa ($95.00 – 13134921). A monument of originality, mineral and deep, exemplary of vitality.
Champagne Bollinger La Grande Année 2014, France ($231.75 – 14683092). A “Puligny-Montrachet” of tension, finesse, clarity and legibility. same for me La Grande Année Rosé 2014 ($282.00 – 14614476).
Chianti Classico 2019, Fontodi, Tuscany, Italy ($39.75 – 879841). Harmony reigns supreme, the bewitching touch on the palate, the long and racy finish.
Syrah Western Cape Schist 2016, South Africa ($122.00 – 13134948). A Syrah on shale that sings high and sings well, over several octaves.
Cabernet Sauvignon “Brandlin Vineyard” 2018, Peter Franus, Napa Valley, US ($87.25 – 14538143). Multidimensional and racy, like a Sassicaia for this alliance of finesse and power, but at a third of the price.
Clos des Grives 2019, Laurent Combier, Crozes-Hermitage, Rhone, France ($70.00 – 14861477). Fine, fresh, tight and structuring tannins on a subtle, tense palate.
Argentiera 2018, Bolgheri Superiore, Italy ($108.75 – 11547378). A happy mix of strength and vulnerability, of natural authority and assumed grace.
Porto Tawny 20 Year Old, Taylor Fladgate, Portugal ($72.25 – 149047). The gradual slide of desire…
An Dúlamán “Santa Ana” Armada Strenght Gin, Sliabh Liag Distillers, Ireland ($59.00 for 500ml – 14917637). A rare, complex, deep, mysterious, textured and heady dry gin.
Grappa di Nebbiolo da Barolo, Damilano, Piedmont, Italy ($66.75 for 500ml – 13480138). Pulse at the same time fruity, spicy but above all balsamic, a little woody.
The Murray, Tullibardine, Double Wood Edition, The Marquess Collection, Scotland ($117.25 – 14800965 – 46% alc./vol.). Vigour, tension, detail, finesse of expression and a long and precise upward finish.
Hennessy XO, Cognac, France ($350.00 – 11456863). Satiny and plush, sophisticated, oversized, as big as a love heart.
Wink
Writing this page is not done alone. This is why my thoughts go out to the inspiring winegrowers and winegrowers, but also to the local agencies and the SAQ whose quality, diversity and accessibility of wines remain once again, for this 2022 vintage which is complete, incomparable in the world. The proof is in this last-minute organic trio that I wish you illuminating, just to start 2023 in good health. Health and social welfare!
Triple Zero Extra Brut, Domaine de La Taille aux Loups, Montlouis-sur-Loire, France ($36.00 – 14781848 – (5) 1/2)
Crozes-Hermitage White 2021, Laurent Combier, Rhône, France ($33.00 – 14955879 – (5) 1/2)
Emilien 2019, Le Puy, Vin de France ($34.00 – 709469 – (5+) © 1/2)
Our energies supported by the chic sommelier Pier-Alexis Soulière who will face, among others, the brilliant Pascaline Lepeltier in the Contest for the best sommelier in the world 2023!