A Christmas with the Mexican-vegan chef, Christian Ventura

This text is part of the special book Plaisirs

Christian Ventura has a very unique journey. Originally from Mexico, he arrived in Quebec at the age of 21 and began working in kitchens, not Latin, but Japanese, as a sushi chef. Then, ten years ago, he became vegan and decided to wear the gourmet standard by opening his first restaurant, Sushi Momo, in 2014, to immediate success. Three other vegan establishments, Casa Kaizen (Japanese and Mexican fusion cuisine), Nopalito (a Mexican sandwich counter) and Bvrger (decadent plant-based burgers) were subsequently created and conquered the taste buds of Montrealers. Chef with 1001 projects, Christian Ventura remains faithful to his roots in his personal life: whether it’s his lunches or holiday meals, it’s Mexican style. Let’s meet him!

Christian, how is Christmas in Mexico?

Very festive! This is an important time for Mexicans, who start celebrating eight days before December 24. Every evening there is a party gathering lots of people in our backyard or in that of our extended family, which also includes our neighbors. We meet outside, therefore, and we all bring a dish or a dessert. We always find, in this potluck, some essential specialties such as buñuelossmall flat donuts with sugar and cinnamon, ponchea fruit and spice hot punch made with rum (or non-alcoholic for children) that is only prepared during the holidays, and tostadas, crunchy corn tortillas topped with several ingredients (pulled chicken, black beans, salsa, Boston lettuce, Panela cheese, etc.). There is also no party without alcohol — Mexicans love beer and spirits — and without the traditional piñata!

On the 24th of December, is there a special reception?

Yes of course. It usually takes place at the grandmother’s house, and it brings together all the family members, which can be very crowded, because we have big families in Mexico. The menu is traditional and plentiful, and it is cooked the day before, as there are quite long preparations to be made. The tamales, for example, are made with a corn dough that you make yourself, which you mix with different ingredients (poultry or spicy fish, vegetables), which you enclose in a corn or banana leaf, then We cook gently for three or four hours. We also eat, that evening, other specialties in the colors of Mexico (red, green and white), like the pozolea corn and meat soup, or salad of nopales, a cactus that we serve with tomatoes and white onions. Don’t forget the desserts, because we have a sweet tooth in Mexico! In general, on December 24, we serve tres leches pastel, a vanilla cake covered with three milk sauce, then topped with whipped cream. And we also nibble buñuelos and churros. There are, in fact, so many things on the menu that, on December 25, we are content to eat leftovers.

How to combine Mexican Christmas and veganism?

It’s not very traditional, of course, but it is possible. Even though I’m vegan, I always celebrate Mexican Christmas with my mom and brother. She makes me guacamole and quesadillas to fakemage. And on my side, I often cook pozole green vegan. If you’ve never tasted it, you don’t know what you’re missing! My version of this dish is both delicious and easy to make. Normally, you have to make a stock with a chicken carcass, which takes hours, but I replaced this ingredient with miso, and it worked. I also use mushrooms instead of meat, but it is also possible to use tofu or jackfruit, a tropical fruit with a texture reminiscent of pulled pork. In short, Christmas dinner can be vegan and satisfying. Besides, I managed to convert my mother, who eats 80% less meat than before. My brother, it’s more complicated, but he tries anyway, that’s the main thing.

Is there another meal held on December 31st, in Mexican culture?

Yes, but it is less filling. In fact, the Mexican tradition especially wants that on December 31, we do not sleep at all! We stay up, in the company of our family, friends or neighbors until noon the next day. And we spend the night drinking tequila and beer and snacking on chilaquiles, corn tortilla chips topped with spicy salsa, because of course, spices wake you up. Needless to say, when we finally go to bed on the 1er January, we are exhausted!

Surprising! But surprise us again by telling us what your ideal vegan Christmas menu would be…

A vegan festive meal is much easier to put together than you might think. All you have to do is concoct small, simple things that can be prepared in advance, in the form of an aperitif dinner, to avoid adding stress to yourself at a time when you are already experiencing a lot of it. I would recommend, for example, producing a big bowl of guacamole and another of salsa that can be served with nachos. You can also prepare salads, hummus and tapas such as mini-tacos with vegetable meat, or quesadillas with cheese and vegetables. And to go with all that, I would serve margaritas, which are easy to make, and light lagers. Finally, I would say that Christmas is above all an opportunity to spend time with family and those we love, and not a cooking competition. So make your life easier!

This special content was produced by the Special Publications team of the To have to, pertaining to marketing. The drafting of To have to did not take part.

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