Already well represented in food and alcohol, forest products are increasingly making their way into the cosmetics department, with none other than maple as their ambassador.
Living in the heart of the Lac-Beauport forest, Mélissa Desrosiers has a look that goes hand in hand with speech. “We live with the four seasons and there is certainly a correlation to be made between what protects our trees and what protects us. Birch extract and oak extract, for example, are good for the hair. We don’t talk about it enough because these are not popular words like argan oil and coconut oil which, however, come from afar, she notes. If there were more of us to use [les produits forestiers], there would be more studies, we would make them known and we could promote Quebec. »
Trainer and account manager for the major brands Clarins and Caudalie, Mme Desrosiers has become over the years over-informed about chemical ingredients and their effects. In figures, it is on average 500 products that a woman puts on her body daily without really knowing it. “Sodium laureth sulfate is used in shampoos to lather, but it’s also a degreaser for car engines,” she gives as an example.
The benefits of maple
Two other findings strike her: the discharge of wastewater into the St. Lawrence River with all the products “that we flush in the shower” and the low ecological shift of hair products. “We think our hair doesn’t absorb what we put on it, but more and more people are getting eczema, psoriasis and rashes. That was enough to convince Mélissa Desrosiers to launch Lasève in 2020 with her childhood friend, Lisemarie Chevalier. The brand offers shampoo, mask and soap made from maple sap. The inspiration came during the sugaring-off season on the land of the Chevaliers; the two women were then trying to replace honey in a product being tested. Three years of research later, there is no doubt that they had a unique local ingredient on hand.
The real stars are the flavonoid and allantoin, two molecules found in water and maple syrup. In addition to hydrating, they prevent dryness of the skin, indicates Mme Desrosiers, who became interested in the traditions of Aboriginal peoples around maple sap, in particular to heal the epidermis. According to rumors, the Koreans would be the first fond of it.
As the amount of allantoin is greater in dark syrups, generally produced at the end of the season, maple syrup producers would find added value to their harvest, believes Ms.me Roses. “Sometimes I tell myself that we are not proud enough of our resources. I look at the chef Arnaud Marchand who works so much with local products. A Frenchman had to come and tell us how good it is (laughs)! The Lasève duo is currently developing a maple syrup hair oil that protects the hair like silicone does.
Banking on boreality
Working with the terroir is also the guideline set by Catherine Therriault, founder of the Les Pétards brand. “When I started, nine years ago, my goal was to make those who have prejudices love ecological products! (laughs) Then I redesigned the line and my goal was to define Canadian cosmetics. When we talk about French cosmetics, we have codes: the big fashion houses, perfumes and “made in France” which evokes quality. But when we talk about Canadian cosmetics, it’s funny, we always think of something a little lumberjack that smells of fir! »
However, several companies have their cosmetics made in Canada, recognized internationally for its know-how and the quality of the products, continues the entrepreneur. For her, it was essential to focus on the benefits of boreality in local cosmetics. Maple syrup is one of the main elements in her moisturizer. A new range of products created around this forest emblem will be launched in the spring of 2023.
She cites the motto “from coast to coast” to explain her duty to rake as wide as possible, from the clay of British Columbia to the sea salt of the Magdalen Islands. Aquatic smells are also at the heart of his concoctions. “One of the ingredients I use the most is Gaspésie seaweed. All the minerals and vitamins the hair needs are there. »
Mélissa Desrosiers believes that the enthusiasm for local consumption is affecting the cosmetics sector. “People eat organic food, exercise, but sometimes they don’t take the time to look at what’s in their shower. I hope to sow the desire to read the ingredient lists! she says. Like her colleague, Catherine Therriault is determined: it’s time to think about the cosmetics of tomorrow with a societal and environmental conscience. “There are still too few companies in this area. And me, my goal is to develop my industry. »