Restaurant review | Ho Guom: to change pho

Through the good shots and, sometimes, the not so good, our restaurant critics tell you about their experience, introduce the team in the dining room and in the kitchen, while explaining what motivated the choice of the restaurant. This week: Vietnamese specialties from Ho Guom.

Why talk about it?

During an informal session of exchange of good addresses, Paul Tran, co-owner of the café/buvette Supernat, praised Ho Guom. He likes to order certain specialties from northern Vietnam that are more difficult to find elsewhere in Montreal. Open for many years, first in Côte-des-Neiges, then on avenue De Lorimier, the restaurant recently moved to rue Jean-Talon Est, between 1^D Avenue and the 2^e.

Who are they ?

The owner, Tommy Nguyen, bought the restaurant from his sister a few years ago. All those who cook here are of Vietnamese origin. It is a sine qua non, teaches us the affable Anh-Tuan Dao. The one who has been in charge of the reception and the cash desk for six years tries to find out the first names of all the regulars. And these seem to be quite numerous.

Our experience

Here, it’s Tuesday that it happens. Insiders (including you now) know that the second course is 50% off that day. That said, if you prefer calm and do not tolerate any waiting before being seated, it is better to go at another time of the week, noon or evening. Having also been there on a Sunday, we can say that what is lacking in entertainment is compensated for in speed of service.

On the menu side, it is of course possible to stay in your slippers and order imperial rolls, tonkinese soup, grilled chicken on vermicelli or one of the many stir-fries offered.

But if we are here, it is to discover other dishes from the Vietnamese repertoire, which come mainly from the North. The Bún chả hà noi is a must, with its deliciously seasoned meatballs and grilled pork in a sweet savory sauce, eaten with vermicelli and plenty of fresh herbs. As its name suggests, it is a specialty of the city of Hanoi. In the Bún nem cua bể, the pork is replaced by delicious rolls (nems) with crab and mushrooms. Excellent.

On the tables of Vietnamese families who came in large numbers on this Tuesday evening in November, we also notice almost black rolls as they are well grilled. It’s Bo Lá Lốt, lemongrass beef wrapped in betel leaves. A fragrant delight. There are also plenty of fish patties and squid roaming the restaurant, dishes that will have to be tried on another visit. We will learn too late that there is a Vietnamese pudding on the menu. Also try one of these four.

Other specialties are for more discerning taste buds. This is the case of the tofu with shrimp sauce that we order. The plate arrives with the same garnishes as all the others (vermicelli, lettuce and fresh herbs). The greyish sauce is next and that’s good. Not everyone at the table has the constitution to eat it.

What are we drinking?

At Ho Guom, everyone brings their own wine (or other alcohol) or drinks juice, soft drink, bubble tea or Vietnamese coffee.

How much does it cost ?

The prices go a bit all over the place. They seem to be set based on the value of their base ingredient. If the small soup with chicken and vermicelli as a starter costs $3.50, the raw beef salad is charged at $23. Phos are $13-$15. The búns, these generous plates overflowing with vermicelli and greens, with a protein of your choice, cost between $23 and $27. We’ll want to share them or take the rest home. At lunchtime, there are express menus with soup or rolls for $17 to $25, but the entire menu is free.

Information

Ho Guom is open every day except Wednesday, from 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. (9:30 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays), at 2605, rue Jean-Talon Est.