After the new controversies on hunting, and the reflection initiated by the government, we asked ourselves the question of whether French gastronomy can do without game?
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A roadmap has been launched to think about new rules in order to limit hunting accidents. A blood alcohol offense or, depending on the region, half-days without hunting could be introduced. An opportunity to reflect on the link between hunting and gastronomy. Could we imagine French gastronomy without game?
“Oh no! replies Thierry Marx. All our cookbooks, from the oldest to the most modern, have a section reserved for hunting. Hunting which belongs, whether we like it or not, whether we denounce it or not, to the French culinary heritage. And all the great chefs express themselves in game recipes, such as hare à la royale.”
If the controversies are multiplying around hunting, it is perhaps necessary to find a balance between a tradition which belongs to the rural history of France, especially when hunting was primarily used to feed, and respect for the environment and those who want to enjoy it quietly.
“The balance is difficult to find, confirms Thierry Marx. I don’t think anyone will ever agree. You can hear those who say that hunting is in the DNA of rurality, and hear those who are shocked to see a gun kill a pheasant. One thing is certain, and we can regret it, game is becoming rarer in restaurants.”