They are chefs, market gardeners, fishermen, hunters, photographers or winegrowers. They are all immensely curious about the flavors of Quebec. The duty went to meet them to learn about their favourites, their recent discoveries, and snoop a bit in their cooking and their memories! Today, an incursion into the gourmet universe of market gardener Alexandre Faille. Interview by Sophie Grenier-Héroux.
You have been a market gardener for the kitchens of the Auberge Saint-Antoine, in Quebec City, for 14 years. Not only were you named to the recent Lauriers de la Gastronomie Québécoise gala for your work, but the inn’s restaurant, Chez Muffy, was named by the Forbes Travel Guide as one of the best restaurants in the world. How do we receive this praise, with both hands in the ground?
It is obviously an honor to have been nominated for the Lauriers gala and to be part of the great family of the Auberge Saint-Antoine. I particularly appreciate this recognition since it comes from the environment for which I work, and it shines on my work team.
On the other hand, it’s not a daily motivation driver: what excites me is really to cultivate products that are distinguished by the history that surrounds them, by their taste qualities, by their originality and by their highlighted by the chefs. It is really a source of pride to see the products of our cultures being transformed in the kitchen in an incredible way and served in the dining room to the delight of the customers.
You were born in the Quebec region, in Saint-Rédempteur. How was young Alexander at the table? What was your culinary world like?
My father is of French origin, and my mother comes from a family where we cooked a lot. So we ate a lot of stuff — like artichokes, a dish not so common at the time. My mother says I ate everything and was always open to discovering new things.
What is your Proust madeleine?
Young adults, when my brother, my sister and I returned to our parents on the weekend, there were always big dinners. And there was often a Quebec classic: Chinese fondue. (Laughs.) And it’s still something I love! Otherwise, my mother made a cold roast beef salad with red wine vinegar and lots and lots of parsley. Even today, I worry.
When did the importance of the Quebec terroir appear in your life?
Pretty soon, I would say. When I did my course in ecology at La Pocatière in the 1990s, I discovered the Maison de la prune and the whole story behind blue and yellow Damascus plums, and their importance in the Kamouraska region. Then it was more farmhouse cheeses, like Migneron. It really turned me on.
With my girlfriend, we love working with local products for all the stories that come with it. And it also comes with a reflection on the occupation of the territory and food autonomy.
What does your kitchen look like?
We just moved to Sainte-
Pétronille, on Île d’Orléans. It is an old chalet that has been renovated. The kitchen and the dining room are open concept. It’s big and fenestrated, so bright, even if we’re a bit in the trees. The decoration dates from the 2000s; it is, let’s say, classic! The central island is in black ceramic, the counters are free. There is the espresso machine and a fruit basket in one corner.
In addition to being a market gardener, you indulge in hunting and fishing. Do you have a specialty when you are in the kitchen?
Chinese fondue! (Laughs.) After doing the butchery — which gives us the meat — we make funds with the idea of keeping everything. I use it to prepare my broth… Chinese fondue! I have the impression of having stayed in 1983 with this dish. (Laughs.) But I really like it!
What is the kitchen tool you can’t live without?
A lemon squeezer and a good knife. We would like to buy a Deva knife made by artisan cutler Dave Fortin. And I like the enameled cast iron casserole too.
What is your essential ingredient?
Balsamic vinegar made with late apples from Surette Condiments. It is really good ! Since we discovered that, we have them all the time!
Do you have a guilty pleasure?
The chips ! I quite like all the flavors, but I’ll say “salt and vinegar”, a good classic!
What is your recent discovery?
I have friends who own the OhBio farm in Saint-Laurent-de-l’Île-d’Orléans. Their strawberries are stupid—they have several varieties—and their raspberries and maple syrup too. It’s really great what they are doing.
There is also Pêcheries Charlevoix, in Saint-Irénée. We went to buy pickled herring and frozen capelin. Julie Gauthier had the time to explain weir fishing and the family history that comes with it. It was really the fun.
Do you have a favorite producer to let us know?
La Marianne farm, in Sainte-
Family-from-l’Île-d’Orléans. We can’t go there, but they sell their products in a few grocery stores in Quebec. They make pears, apples, plums, peaches, table grapes. It’s incredible. All is well !
If you took the road, you would go…
In Kamouraska, at Perle Morency and Kim Côté, at the Côté Est restaurant. I would go to the Niemand bakery, next door. I would also go see Pierre-Olivier Ferry, in Métis-sur-Mer.
Where would you like to be seated right now?
I would return to the French Basque Country. I fell in love with all the products. There is the Kintoa pig, a heritage species saved by Pierre Oteiza. He raises his pigs on pasture, and that gives an exceptional ham. I love the mix of the mountains and the sea. They make very good ciders and sheep’s milk cheese there. And Basque cake doesn’t make sense! Yeah, I would go back there!