The wines of the week | The many landscapes of wine

On the shores of the Mediterranean, the green hills of Tuscany, the majestic Dentelles de Montmirail: the wine landscapes are numerous and not alike. They leave their mark on what we drink, but also contribute to the pleasure of tasting. I always imagine the places that saw the birth of the wines I taste. Their beauty adds to the pleasure, as well as to the understanding of the products, intimately linked to their environment.

Veronique Rivest
Sommelier, guest collaborator

Like a seaside

The Piquepoul grape variety, like Pinot or Grenache, comes in three colors: black, gray and white. Originally from Vaucluse, it is a very old grape variety whose first mention dates back to 1384. Allowed for blending in several appellations in the south of France, including Châteauneuf-du-Pape, it stands out as a unique grape variety in the Picpoul de Pinet, near Sète, on the Mediterranean coast. Discreet on the nose and not very fruity, this one presents saline and shellfish notes, typical of this terroir strongly influenced by the sea. On the palate, the wine is light, all in freshness, with citrus notes, a certain grain to the texture, and always this delicate salty impression. A tailor-made wine to let the flavors of fresh seafood shine through: oysters, crab, sashimi, grilled fish.

La Croix Gratiot Picpoul de Pinet 2021, $19.40 (14726945), 12%, organic

Aging: 1 or 2 years

All-purpose and super tasty

Another delicious vintage for this authentic and charming Chianti! The estate cultivates 13 hectares of organic vines (and even more olive trees) in the hills of Tuscany, about thirty kilometers west of Florence. Impeccable work in the vineyard and in the cellar, with biodynamic and minimal interventionist practices, gives frank and gourmet wines, full of vitality. Their “little” Chianti is the everyday Italian wine par excellence. Very dry and super tasty, with a ripe and charming fruit enhanced by notes of dried herbs and undergrowth. Light tannins give it just the right amount of relief. Very versatile, it will accompany spaghetti bolognese, aubergines with parmesan, tomatoes stuffed with meat, grilled sausages.

Fattoria di Sammontana Chianti 2020, $21.95 (14203870), 13%, organic

Aging: 1 or 2 years

A great success!

The first Thomas Jullien wine that I tasted last year was love at first sight. It was full of sparkle and delicacy, very fine and excellent value for money. Just like this one, made from 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah, grown near the town of Suzette, on the hillsides of Beaumes-de-Venise, at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail. With a purplish color, it offers a moderate nose, but which gives off a great impression of purity. The palate is full of fruit, with lots of sparkle, accentuated by a delicate volatile acidity. Notes of garrigue, flowers and spices mingle with the fruit. The palate is complex and melted, with a silky texture. Material, certainly, but all in finesse, with a mineral impression and fine tannins that show up on the finish. For the table: ratatouille, roast chicken, duck breast with blackberries.

Domaine La Ferme Saint Martin Les Terres Jaunes Beaumes-de-Venise 2019, $27.20 (14997462), 14.5%, organic

Aging: 3 to 5 years