This text is part of the special book Plaisirs
From Nova Scotia, we are most familiar with the Bluenose found on dimes, Halifax Harbour, the spectacular viewpoints of the Cabot Trail and the colorful buildings of Lunenburg. And if we let our taste buds guide us during our next getaway in the province?
It takes about three and a half hours from Halifax to reach the municipality of Clare, which most residents prefer to call Baie Sainte-Marie. Here, more than 75% of the inhabitants speak French and English. Since this summer, stop signs have been bilingual at street corners. “In 1604, Champlain gave the name Baie Sainte-Marie, explains Danny Blinn, from the Acadian Interpretation Centre, as we learn how to fish for clams — also called cockles — at Anse-des-Belliveau. Clare is the name given by an English governor. »
The colonial heritage is also present on the plate. Originally from Baie Sainte-Marie, Simon Thibault, author of the book Pantry and Palate, which brings together and revisits Acadian recipes, goes back in time to better understand the influence of the past. “When we talk about Nova Scotian cuisine, traditionally it’s a cuisine that speaks of the people who settled the region. Essentially, we mean British, Scottish, Irish and German influences. But we must not forget the Acadians, who were the first settlers in the region. »
“What is interesting, he continues, is that Acadian cuisine as it still exists today is mainly based on the cultural and culinary ties that were woven once the Acadians had the right to return In the region. Which means that Acadian cuisine exists in relation to the people around it. This is something that we find among several peoples who are part of the diaspora. »
Each region of the province has its specificities. “The seasonings and techniques change from region to region. Basically, we are talking about subsistence cuisine, regardless of whether it is Acadian or Nova Scotian in tradition. »
From lobster to râpure
“Twenty years ago, people came for the churches,” explains Larry Peach, tourism manager for the Municipality of Clare. Today, we are mainly highlighting cultural experiences. We have an Acadian festival and a farmer’s market. Gastronomy is at the heart of the experiences offered. Every Friday evening until September 2, a seafood dinner is served along the waterfront in Joseph-et-Marie-Dugas park in Anse-des-Belliveau, where there is also a trail and a lighthouse. At Argyler Lodge, diners can savor a lobster as the sun gently descends over the Tusket Islands.
Take part in kitchen party La Cuisine Robicheau, in Saulnierville, is an interesting option to taste different dishes in a more folkloric context. Among the great classics, it is impossible not to mention râpure, comfort food par excellence. “If you manage to go beyond texture, you’ll love the raspness,” says Alain Bossé alias The Kilted Chef — it even has its own tartan — which regularly participates in national and international events to promote the gastronomy of the Atlantic provinces. If you can’t, it’s a dish you’ll never be able to enjoy. »
Simon Thibault says that a few years ago, a festival offered rapure remix. “People arrived with a rapture at the donair [boeuf épicé et sauce sucrée dans un pita]one with blueberries, one with kimchi… Everything that is Acadian blossoms, flourishes,” he observes.
Another great classic, fricot is a chicken soup that everyone concocts according to their family heritage. “It is prepared in different ways in the Acadian world, depending on where you are going,” explains Alain Bossé, who notably published The Acadian Kitchen. Recipes from then and now in 2018. Some prepare it with a whole chicken. In my recipe book, I have four versions of fricot, to be sure to please all regions. »
Halifax’s revival
In Halifax, Drift Restaurant, at the stunning Muir Hotel, which opened in December 2021 in the new Queen’s Marque neighborhood on the waterfront, offers its own twists on some classics, in addition to beautifully showcasing local produce. The culinary vision is led by Montreal-born chef Anthony Walsh, best known for Canoe restaurant in Toronto, and chef de cuisine Jamie MacAulay, originally from Nova Scotia. “I think there’s a wake-up call about all that this landscape has to offer,” says Anthony Walsh, who has traveled to the Maritimes several times to learn about local producers and understand the culture. Between oysters and lobster, slip in more traditional dishes such as hodge podgea sort of seafood stew. “People talk about a love letter to the east coast,” says Anthony Walsh about Drift.
Queen’s Marque will undoubtedly be one of the favorite neighborhoods of foodies over the next few years. In addition to the four restaurants opened since the end of 2021, seven will be inaugurated over the next 24 months.
This trip was made possible by invitations from the Muir Autograph Collection Hotel, Yarmouth and Acadian Shores and Tourism Nova Scotia.