The wines of the week | French reds that stand out

France and Italy have long produced similar quantities of wine. One year, France is number one in terms of wine production, the next, it’s Italy. But the climatic upheavals hit hard in France in 2021, in particular with devastating episodes of frost. Production there has fallen by 19%, which is likely to drive up prices. Here are three French reds from different regions, all of which still offer good value for money.

Veronique Rivest
Sommelier, guest collaborator

Fleshy, yet vibrant

Domaine Virgile Joly is located in the northern part of Languedoc, in the hills of Larzac, west of Montpellier. This cuvée, Domaine Virgile Joly Le Joly Rouge Languedoc 2019, made with Syrah, Carignan, Grenache and Cinsault, has a fairly intense purplish color. The nose, very aromatic, offers notes of very ripe black fruits, even stewed, with nuances of garrigue, anise and meat, all very harmonious and melted. The palate is rich and very tasty, powerful, but also very fresh: the altitude of the vineyards and the limestone soils surely have something to do with it. A mineral impression also adds to the freshness and prolongs the finish, where moderate, ripe and coated tannins emerge. To be served at the table, with grilled red meats or a tian of courgettes, aubergines and tomatoes.

Domaine Virgile Joly Le Joly Rouge Languedoc 2019, $19.15 (12879198), 14%, organic

Aging: 1 to 3 years

Cabernet franc lover, this is for you

What a delight this Bourgueil from Nicolas Grosbois! Already, the color is full of brilliance; it does not change the quality of the wine, but it adds to the pleasure. The nose is moderate, but fine, harmonious, fruity and appetizing, with notes of raspberry, cedar, pencil lead. Very dry, the wine is fresh and crisp on the palate, with a lot of fruity sparkle, notes of red fruits and very nice vegetal notes that add freshness and complexity. Light, it nevertheless shows consistency and stretches out on a tasty finish with delicate, very fine tannins. To be served chilled, as an aperitif with charcuterie or grilled vegetables, or at the table with stuffed vegetables or a steak and fries. What fun!

Nicolas Grosbois Bourgueil Clos de la Henry Monopole 2020, $21.35 (14915906), 12%, organic

Laying down: to drink

A ripe and luscious cuvée

Crozes-Hermitage is one of those appellations which are very vast, and therefore also very heterogeneous. It’s always better to know who you’re buying from. You can trust Domaine Belle: the quality is always there. In 2020, the Cuvée Les Pierrelles is ripe and luscious, but still with harmony and a lot of finesse. Aromas of blackberries, white pepper and garrigue set the tone. A few floral and sanguine notes add complexity. Quite fleshy on the palate, but still fine, the wine shows freshness and momentum. A ripe and complex Syrah wine, but above all very harmonious, which is made for the table: prime rib or lamb chops with herbs or tapenade.

Domaine Belle Les Pierrelles Crozes-Hermitage 2020, $30.50 (863795), 13.5%, organic

Aging: 4 or 5 years