This text is part of the special book Plaisirs
There is something extraordinary about Newfoundland. Its geology is unique, its waters are rich in delicious marine species and its boreal forest is fertile ground for a variety of wild berries. This is an unparalleled destination for gourmet explorers.
A unique territory
Along the coast, from Woody Point to St. Anthony, the changing panorama illustrates the uniqueness of the island.
At Woody Point, the Tablelands Trail in Gros Morne National Park is a rust-colored rock, made up of part of the Earth’s mantle and oceanic crust and dating back to the formation of the Appalachians 460 million ago of years. All around are boreal forest and fields of wild flowers. The contrast between the landscapes is striking.
A little further north, Western Brook Pond illustrates another geological phenomenon. Aboard the Bon Tours cruise, the guide explains that it was during the most recent ice age that this fjord, known as the “pond”, was formed, leaving its incredible mark on the landscape of the Long Range Mountains. In the far north, the banks are reminiscent of those of the Lower North Shore, in Quebec, which can be seen on the other side of the Gulf of St. Lawrence.
Delights along the way
Specific to the Canadian Nordic soil, the pretty flowers, which will give small fruits, are everywhere, in particular the cloudberry, also called cloudberry, just like the red seed, alias the lingonne. Here, their fruits are served in all sauces.
To eat and enjoy ice cream made from local berries, head to St. Lunaire-Griquet, at Café Nymphe run by The Dark Tickle Company, which even includes a jam maker Economuseum!
In Newfoundland, cod is in the spotlight, especially in several restaurants, which may seem surprising given the moratorium to which it is subject and which is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year. It is found in chowder, in fish cakes and in fisherman’s brewis Café Nymphe — the Newfoundland classic consisting of cod served with fried bacon bits and stale bread.
A whole fishing story
When John Cabot was sailing near Newfoundland in 1497, he and his crew noticed the abundance of cod. Indigenous nations, who have set foot on it before them, are already well aware of its large stock.
“The Beothuks, Inuits, Innus and Micmacs have come to this new land over time to find various resources, such as caribou, edible and medicinal plants, and abundant marine products,” says Keith Payne, of of Mi’kmaq descent and co-founder of Gros Morne Adventures at Norris Point during an Aboriginal history tour.
At the beginning of colonization, the rumor about the abundance of cod spread in Europe. So much so that the French, Portuguese and Spaniards also came to fish there massively from the beginning of the 16th century.e century.
For nearly 500 years, catches were so good off Newfoundland that the resource seemed inexhaustible. Until 1992, on July 2, the government imposed a moratorium on cod fishing. The result: 30,000 Newfoundlanders lost their jobs that day.
Thirty years later, it’s surprising to find cod everywhere in restaurants. “In fact, only inshore fishing is allowed for a small number of local fishermen and their quota is very limited,” explains Kier Knudsen, son of a fisherman and owner of the company Dark Tickle Expeditions Boat Tour, in St. Lunaire-Griquet. The cod fished remain in Newfoundland and meet the demand of residents and restaurants year-round. »
Cod in the spotlight
Often offered in fish and chips, it is sometimes poached and served on a grilled polenta, topped with a creamy sauce, and accompanied by a salad of fennel and apple in juliennes very fresh, as at the restaurant The Black Spruce, in Norris Point. Nearby, the Chanterelles restaurant serves it over saffron pasta, topped with a creamy chive sauce and garnished with wildflowers. These two tables are among the best addresses in western Newfoundland.
In addition to cod, they also catch halibut, capelin and lobster. In addition, the snow crab season stretches from April to July and it is allowed to serve wild game in the restaurant. Newfoundland and Labrador is the only province in the country to authorize it. What good news for foodies!
Our reporter was a guest on Go Western Newfoundland.