For its 40th anniversary, the Fête de la Musique found its bearings more than ever in the streets of Paris: amateur singers put on a show, established groups performed their hits, and the public danced frantically. We criss-crossed a few districts of Paris to take the temperature. From rock in Saint-Michel, electro in Belleville, Arab-Andalusian rhythms at the Institut du monde arabe, each area has its own style. And its audience. Follow us.
6 p.m.: the EF Festival is getting ready in the 15th arrondissement
While many Parisians leave work, the organizers of the various concerts are busy making the final preparations in cafes, restaurants or in the squares of their neighborhood. In the 15th arrondissement, still calm at the start of the evening, we can already see the signs announcing the multiple programs.
But the event not to be missed is on the forecourt of the town hall, for the new and sixth edition of the EF Festival, dedicated to electro music. A group of young people set up the main stage and the bar, while ensuring that there is enough space to accommodate everyone. In 2019, 15,000 people were there, they hope for the same this year. “What’s going to happen tonight?”, asks a young mother, her baby in her arms. “It’s an electro night. But electro nice!”, responds one of the volunteers to try to convince her to come. On the program: Faut & Maud, Life Like or even Nicolas Monier have responded to animate the district.
7 p.m.: we push the voice in Montmartre and Belleville
“If some people want to come and sing their compositions, they are welcome! Everything is allowed with the Fête de la Musique”. A trio of young artists settled at the exit of the Abbesses metro to present their creations in front of a few curious crowds. The loudspeaker crackles, the sound volume of the microphone varies… Despite everything, Hortense, a young singer, settles down in front of the spectators, her guitar in her hand. “You will excuse me, I have barely started the guitar”, she said softly. Difficult performance conditions and yet the magic operates: her angelic voice, her tight vibrato seduce passers-by who stop to film her.
“She has a magnificent voice”, confides Chantal, moved behind her mask. “The Fête de la Musique, I would do it here, in my neighborhood. I prefer to avoid crowded places”. After Hortense, a young rapper takes the microphone and begins his song. “It’s a good crash test, this evening”, assures us the beginner musician. “It helps build self-confidence.”
Higher up, Place Emile Goudeau, a man beats a can of soda on the cobblestones, accompanied by his guitarist friend. “This is also music. It’s a mess,” he shouts, laughing.
In Belleville, the DJs set up in front of the bars and get ready for an evening that promises to be quite electro. Several associations have organized a series of concerts in the neighborhood park. Myriam, in her sixties, opens the dance. Small sunglasses on her nose, a purple hat placed on her head and a patterned dress, she nonchalantly sings songs by Amy Winehouse, but with a powerful and controlled voice. In the audience, parents came with their children. Little Maé is shaking a maraca while others are rolling on the lawn. “This party is super important. It also helps to make the youngest aware of music in a more relaxed atmosphere than a classical indoor concert”explains his mother.
An atmosphere that does not please everyone. “The goal of the music festival is to make music, not put loud music!”, grumbles a passerby. “It’s going to be a long night!”
8 p.m.: Reunionese rhythms at République, silence at Bastille
Boom boom boom. The Place de la République vibrates to the sounds of the turntables bringing a younger audience to it. At the brewery HAS The Good Beer, the DJ, in his floral shirt, savors the moment as much as the public, who dance on the sidewalks and on the road. In front of the bars, people line up to get drinks to take away.
On the Place de la République, Reunion Island is in the spotlight. “Hello Reunion! Koman i le?”, screams into his microphone Maroni, host of the event, acclaimed by the spectators. The evening is just beginning and already a good group has formed around the stage. “I’ve been waiting for these concerts for several days!”, tells us Marie, a Parisian of Reunionese origin. “It’s rare for these artists to come to France!”. The singers Médérice, Junior or even Zanmari Baré made the trip.
On the Bastille side, the atmosphere is a little different. While the evening was to be hosted by one of the most important French gospel formations, the Total Praise Mass Choir, a thunderous silence reigns over the Place de la Colonne de Juillet. The reason ? An electric meter problem. Microphones and speakers do not work. Dressed in black, the members of the group do not lose hope: they clap their hands, sing loudly in front of an audience that does not hear much. “There is music everywhere in Paris and we necessarily choose the wrong place”, rattles a group of young people. If the microphones work intermittently, part of the public does not last long before going to see other concerts a little further.
9 p.m.: trance at the Arab World Institute
Rock, classical music or French song, from one bar to another, the musical styles oppose each other without mixing. At the Institute of the Arab World (IMA), the public is there. The Algerian group Cheikh Sidi Bémol sings under an almost constant thunder of applause. A little further on, a troupe in traditional dress sings and plays surrounded by a trance-like audience that mingles with the dance.
At the bottom of the institute, the platforms are also successful. Faced with DJ Jacques Fromage, it is impossible to sneak in as there are so many people. On the barges, fans of Mark Ronson and Bruno Mars dance to Uptown Funk.
Ed Sheeran, Michael Jackson, AC/DC… A wide range of artists resounds in the rue de la Huchette and on the place St Michel. A burger or fries in hand, small groups form everywhere and go from bar to bar. “I like to go from one neighborhood to another. The 6th is quieter, more poised. But to dance, you have to go to Châtelet!”explains Martin, who came with friends.
10 p.m.: the marching band at Châtelet-Les Halles
Indeed, the streets of Châtelet and the Les Halles district are lively. And crowded. “Where do you want us to go? You choose!” whispers a young man to his girlfriend, both a little lost in the face of the many proposals. Rue des Lombards, you have to crab to be able to move forward. Which does not prevent passers-by from stopping to sing and dance to It’s Raining Men.
We fell in love with the La Rôtisserie brass band in front of the Le Bigo bar, rue Berger. Of Umbrella from Rihanna to Organized gang from 13’Organisé, the joyful formation adapts American and French hits, recent and older, with brass and percussion. The public, unleashed, is completely conquered.