Freshness under the sun | The rosés of summer

When the mercury rises and the terraces open up, it’s time to rediscover the rosé. And as Quebec summers seem to be getting hotter and hotter, the popularity of this refreshing wine is steadily increasing. Our collaborator Karyne Duplessis Piché tasted nearly 70 rosés that will be sold at the SAQ this summer. Here are his nine favorite bottles.

Karyne Duplessis Piche
special cooperation

Quebec drink

At Château de Cartes in Dunham, winemaker Stéphane Lamarre has set himself the challenge of producing a delicate, low-colored rosé made from hybrid grape varieties. The task is more complicated than it looks, because the skin and flesh of hybrid grapes contain a lot of color. To achieve this, the winemaker brings together the Sainte-Croix, the Radisson, the Frontenac Gris as well as the table grape, the Somerset. The latter brings spice flavors reminiscent of cinnamon candies. In the glass, the notes of very ripe red fruits are reminiscent of the hot summer of 2021. On the palate, the wine is greedy, round and has good length. Ideal for grilling.

Chateau de Cartes gray wine, $22.95 (14559358), 10.5%

All organic

Between the vineyards of Aix-en-Provence and the hillsides bordering the Mediterranean Sea, in the middle, are the Coteaux Varois. This little paradise extends around the mountain of Sainte-Baume. The president of a technology and environment company, Yann Pineau, fell in love with the Château de l’Escarelle, established in the village of La Celle. Upon his arrival in 2015, he gave himself the mandate to convert this huge property of 1000 hectares, 10% of which are covered in vines, to organic farming. Pouring your rosé, you would think you could hear the song of cicadas and crickets. Cinsault, Syrah and Grenache confer aromas of strawberry and lilac. The almost oily texture in the mouth adds to the bright fruitiness. Pure happiness!

Château de l’Escarelle Coteaux Varois en Provence 2021, $19.95 (14678373), 13%, organic

Cheap, cheap

In recent years, the label of this Spanish rosé has changed. The color of the wine has faded. But its taste is still just as good. Very close to La Rioja, the Bodega Borsao group cherishes a grape variety: Grenache. This variety gives wines with generous fruitiness. This rosé is no exception to the rule. Its aromas are reminiscent of rose, peach and red fruits. On the palate, it is more complex than its price suggests. The attack is juicy and round. The flavors linger for a long time. Make reservations for camping and for parties swimming pool.

Borsao Selección Campo de Borja, $13.10 (10754201), 14%

The treat

The price of this bottle will undoubtedly make more than one hesitate. Once the cork is pulled, no one will be disappointed. This wine opens with aromas of red fruits to which are added subtle notes of citrus fruits and fresh herbs. These betray the addition of 5% Sauvignon Blanc to the classic Grenache-based rosé. The happiness continues on the palate with a rich and fragrant texture supported by a beautiful acidity. This rosé comes from the Paso Roble appellation, south of San Francisco, where the Daou family planted their vines at altitude to keep the wine fresh. It succeeded ! For the ultimate treat, serve it with lobster.

Daou Paso Robles 2021, $27.95 (14977285), 13.5%

Rosé for lovers of red

The warmth of Chile is expressed in this rosé from the Miguel Torres estate. The Torres family blends delicate Pinot with powerful Mourvèdre. The result is divine. The attack is crisp, juicy and fruity. On the palate, subtle tannins bring structure to the aromas of black fruits. It can stand up to a flank steak topped with a chimichurri sauce as well as a salad of grilled vegetables and tofu. We love it all the more because the Torres family applies the rules of organic farming. Hello!

Miguel Torres Las Mulas 2020, $14.95 (14396801), 13%, organic

In a few weeks

If it is possible to bottle the taste of ripe fruit filled with the sun of Provence, the scent of lavender fields and the saltiness of the seaside, and add to it the carefree feeling of the holidays, it is in this rosé from the Dupéré Barrera couple that all of this comes together. Produced in the Côtes de Provence, the Nowat cuvée smells of melon, white peach and fresh almonds. Its bouquet is also reminiscent of small red summer fruits. Everything is found in a mouth just fruity enough where the texture is round and enveloping. Its only flaw: it will have to wait until the summer before it hits the shelves of the SAQ.

Dupéré Barreta Côtes de Provence rosé Nowat 2021, $19.75 (13574425), 13%

Table rosé… coming soon

During his visit to Quebec last March, producer Philippe Guigal described the changing climate in the Rhône Valley. “Since the 2000s, we harvest earlier, before the equinox. We have higher alcohol levels, above 11%, ”he said. However, the 2021 vintage was very different. “It was like the last century,” he added. In some cases, it was even necessary to chaptalize [ajouter du sucre]. The result: his 2021 rosé has more freshness and expresses itself with great elegance. Until it hits shelves in July, you can buy a bottle from the previous vintage. In this way, you can have fun this summer tasting them side by side.

E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône 2021, $23.35 (918839), 14%

Still a little patience

Patience has virtues and those who leave room in the cellar will be delighted to add this rosé from Spain. Grenache, Viura and Tempranillo come together in this bottle produced in Rioja. Its bouquet smells of blood orange, peach pits and white flowers. The attack on the palate is lively, crunchy and juicy. It is quickly enhanced by a vinous texture that adds complexity. Subtle spicy notes betray a short passage in oak barrels. Drink in the summer or save for the fall to break the end of vacation blues.

Muga Rosado Rioja 2021, $19.05 (14205226), 13.5%

You will not be disappointed

Lovers of natural wine snap up the cuvées from the Italian estate Ampeleia. They will have the same enthusiasm for its rosé, which will go on sale at the beginning of July. In the Maremma region, about forty kilometers from the sea, the estate run by Elisabetta Foradori and Marco Tait produces its rosé by macerating the Alicante Nero grapes in Carignan juice. With its lively and intense color, its slightly cloudy color and its aromas of black tea and orange peel, this rosé is not typical. Vinified as naturally as possible, i.e. without filtration and with a minimum of sulphite, it is ultimately disconcerting and bewitching.

Rosato di Ampeleia 2021, $31