Although it is active on an annual basis, the MLRS (Mouvement de libération du rosé saison), of which I am to this day the perpetual secretary and the only active member, comes once again to annoy you with this wine which does not is neither white nor red, who has her buttocks sitting between two chairs and who is anything but gendered. In short, a wine considered by many to be so superficial on tasting that no encephalography worthy of the name deigns to register the slightest intellectual activity in the space that serves as your cranial box. In short, it does not fly high.
Yet… like a tide at the bottom of the river, you keep coming back to it. This is evidenced by the overall category of rosés (including those from here), growing by 4.5% in volume and 8.4% in value for the financial year 2021-2022 vs 2020- 2021. 25 products will be added to the 250 offered last year, with occasional additions in the fall and at the end of the year.
The SAQ sent this week to the To have to a skewer of IGP Vin du Québec rosé samples. A few comments. First, the screw cap is as logical and efficient for this type of product as helicopter stunts are for Tom Cruise. Secondly, our hybrids are so efficient because of their unique character, but above all their beautiful acidity, that they seem born to give birth to such jewels, whatever the vintage. And, thirdly, rarely do we have here such an obvious overall quality for such digestible wines. We have already discussed in this column the subject of a unique stylized bottle “IGP Vin du Québec”. Due to a global shortage of glass, and for the sake of recovering the glass in question, wouldn’t it be time for the Association des vignerons du Québec to adopt a unique format that can be easily identified by consumers, a bottle who would distinguish us? The question is asked again! In the meantime, a few impressions for local rosés, all from the 2021 vintage… Note that the tasting continues on the web platform of the To have to.
Marie Rose, Les Vents D’Ange Vineyard ($13.90 – 12123657). The pioneer grape offers tone, texture and frank notes of rhubarb and green apple. Nice balance. (5) © ★★ 1/2
La Halte des Pèlerins ($15.95 – 11833753). The Frontenac grape varieties enrich a charming, full, lively and largely fruity palate. The house offers it with trout from Les Bobines, olive tapenades and veal cannelloni…yum. (5) © ★★ 1/2
Seashells, Côte de Champlain ($15.10 – 14575294). Seyval Noir dominates the blend here and provides a benefit that is both mineral, where blood orange adds to the charm, while remaining in a straight and well-defined profile. A discovery for me. (5) © ★★ 1/2
Champs de Florence, Domaine du Ridge ($15.95 – 741702). Marie-Florence, just like this wine whose name is inspired by the daughter of the owner, has beautiful cherry-colored cheeks and a fruity speech which is just as much. Liveliness and bitterness compete for a digestible mouth, in relief. (5) © ★★ 1/2
Versant, Coteau Rougemont ($15.85 – 12644153). Character? Obviously ! A generous mouth too, lively, uninhibited, tasty. (5) © ★★ 1/2
Cuvée Détente, Léon Courville ($15.95 – 11686626). This blend of equal parts Seyval Noir, Chaunac and Maréchal Foch seems to me to be much drier than before, without however losing its superb character and the presence of its fruity character. It’s light, insistent, with a pleasant bitterness on the finish. (5) © ★★ 1/2
Rosé Gabrielle, Rivière du Chêne Vineyard, Quebec ($16.25 – 10817090). The house draws a sustained color from this harmonious blend of black seyval, red frontenac, pioneer and white frontenac. Dry, simple, lively, crunchy, in short, serve very fresh on your summer salads. © ★★ 1/2
L’Orpailleur ($16.55 – 14721950). Nothing to blame it for and everything to gain here, starting with a very clean, appetizing, dry, simple, tasty and digestible fruity profile. We would drink it… so let’s drink it! (5) © ★★ 1/2
Domaine Labranche ($16.95 – 14721861). The dominant white Frontenac already draws the character of this rosé which has volume, vitality, vinosity and density. A meal rosé. (5) © ★★ 1/2
Vin Gris, Chateau de Cartes ($22.95 – 14559358). The assembly is convincing, the profile rather fine and detailed and the mouthfeel very subtle. The set is digestible and light without sacrificing style or personality. Worth the detour ! (5) © ★★★