“The merchant-elevator is in a way an ambassador for his region and for the appellation contrôlée that he defends, in the sense that it would not be in our interest, for myself and for the many winegrowers with whom I negotiates the purchase of juice to raise them at home in our family cellar, to export a production that is not up to our aspirations”, Philippe Guigal recently commented during a first post-pandemic tasting presence in Quebec. In short, being a “trader” and a “breeder” is the same art as that of the winegrower bent over the fruits of his own vineyard.
The E.Guigal and Paul Jaboulet Aîné (PJA) houses, both located in the Northern Rhône valley, are among them. Just like the respectable houses Chapoutier, Delas and Jean-Louis Chave. Their reputations go well beyond the borders of France and the overall quality, whether it comes from their own vineyards or their trading activity, is exemplary. Represented in Quebec for decades, they deliver a production of flawless regularity, whether under the leadership of Philippe Guigal (but also of the indefatigable father Marcel, who is reluctant to retire) or even, more recently, by Caroline Frey (Château La Lagune in Bordeaux and Billecart-Salmon in Champagne), who quickly adopted organic (and biodynamic) viticulture on PJA’s house plot. Caroline and Philippe, both oenologists, would have crossed their secateurs in another life that we would not be surprised. A generation that has the destinies of this northern Rhône at heart, delivering no more and no less than the best Syrahs, Roussannes, Marsannes and Viogniers on the wine planet.
E.Guigal
Does the E.Guigal house need an introduction? Your answer will be ours. “There is no good without pain” is the credo here. This is what Étienne Guigal was already doing in the early 1940s, when the Côte-Rôtie appellation, 24 centuries old, was reduced to a trickle. Restored walls and cleared vineyards, it will increase from 70 hectares in the early 1970s to more than 300 in 2017, areas that are still too confidential given the stratospheric global demand.
In total, out of a handful of prestigious appellations (Hermitage, Saint-Joseph, Condrieu, etc.), the Guigals have 75 hectares of vines planted in the Northern Rhône to which were added, with the purchase of Château de Nalys in 2017 , 77 other hectares near Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a few steps from Château Rayas.
Let’s keep them always very reliable Côtes-du-Rhône White 2020 ($20.95 – 290296 – (5) ★★★) and Red 2018 ($20.95 – 259721 – (5) ★★★), the Fabulous Condrieu La Doriane 2019 ($146 – 14728465 – (5) ★★★★ 1/2) or the Châteauneuvois Château de Nalys 2018 in white ($82.50 – 14973129 – ★★★★) and red 2018 (14973137 – © ★★★★ ) as well as its second wines Holy Stones of Nalys 2020 in white ($50.50 – 14973137 – ★★★ 1/2) and in red 2017 (14973161 – © ★★★★ ), wines that will arrive on the market later.
Paul Jaboulet Elder
Although it has reduced the volumes of its trading activity, the house nevertheless has a significant heritage planted in the Hermitage appellation, whether in the Méal, the Dionnières, the Greffieux, the Roucoules or the Bessards, where the granites abound. In total, Paul Jaboulet Aîné produces around three million bottles from 125 hectares of vineyards. The house flagship? The plot L’Hermite which supplies the mythical La Chapelle cuvée, whose 1990 vintage (êêêêê), tasted on the spot at the time with Gérard Jaboulet, had, because of this finesse-power alliance, quite naturally opened the floodgates of our tear duct leaving us speechless. The very definition of the Great Wine.
The production here is of consistent quality, with the impression of having gained in brilliance and precision since the takeover by the Frey family in 2006. This Côtes du Rhône 2020 “Parallel” 45 ($16.70 – 332304 – (5) ★★ 1/2) for example is pure delight with exemplary sapidity, while the Saint Joseph “The Great Pompey” 2020 ($38 – 14095371 – (5+) © ★★★ 1/2 – to come) surprises with its fine shine and remarkable tannin texture. As for the famous Domain of Thalabert 2020 in Crozes Hermitage ($48 – 14803154 – (5+) © ★★★ 1/2 – to come), great sap from “adult” Syrahs, both rich, deep, racy, simply… imperial. Keep an eye on your cellar!