According to the latest statistics provided by the Bordeaux Wine Interprofessional Council (CIVB), it seems that the Girondine appellation is getting a makeover, in a context, it should be remembered, where climatic upheavals are already making themselves felt field.
“Let’s cultivate tomorrow, for a committed vineyard” is the new credo put forward to explore new avenues (varieties of interest for the purposes of adaptation to climate change with the non-indigenous grape varieties Arinarnoa, Castets, Marselan, Touriga Nacional, Alvarinho and liliorila) while making sure to certify 75% of the surface area of the vineyard through a coherent environmental approach, detailed the CIVB in 2021.
Stéphane Derenoncourt’s team (Derenoncourt consultants), quoted here last week, is already integrating this new paradigm shift into its activities. The once deadly soils of Bordeaux under gluttonous rations of pesticides are already part of an approach that promotes biodiversity without which the future is hopelessly blocked.
A key player in France
Let us recall, in a few figures, that Bordeaux remains the largest vineyard with a controlled designation of origin with 108,000 hectares of vines (25% in area of French AOCs), of which nearly 20,000 hectares are certified, either in organic conversion ( for 10,800 hectares and 1,034 farms, a 43% increase in surface area in one year, according to Agence Bio) or in biodynamics (for approximately 1,400 hectares totaling 72 other farms, according to data from Demeter and Biodyvin).
In total, there are 5,300 winegrowers, 300 trading houses, 29 cooperative cellars and 3 unions (nearly a quarter of AOC production), all delivering an average of 649 million bottles per vintage.
No doubt, Bordeaux is a key player in the wine sector in France.
If the fact of being at the head of the pack on the environmental plan is all to his credit, this should not however remain a pious wish by ensuring for example that, for the 2200 farms certified in High environmental value (with obligation of result on biodiversity, phytosanitary, fertilization and irrigation), this same HVE certification is not just window dressing, as it sometimes seems to be the case.
That said, the machine is launched and the wines speak for themselves. Here are a few tasted this week.
Clarendelle 2016, Inspired by Haut-Brion, Bordeaux ($22.95 – 13313196). The perfect claret for dining with friends and putting the world to rights without sacrificing intellectual acuity. Simple, fresh and fruity, supple and well mannered. Grilled scoter. (5) ★★ 1/2
Château Haut Selve 2016, Graves ($25 – 11095068). Equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, in the spirit of the 2016s, already accessible, but reserved, fresh with its smoky and minty touch that prolongs the finish. (5) ★★ 1/2
Château Treytins 2018, Lalande de Pomerol ($25.80 – 892406). The dominant Merlot here reaches its fruity peak, with just enough oak to finely spice it all up. Body, suppleness and vigor. Beautiful bottle. (5) © ★★★
Château Larivaux 2016, Haut-Médoc ($31 – 13461842). A classic Haut-Médoc, rather discreet and “cold” in this vintage. Tight texture and supple tannins, very fresh, a bit austere however. (5) © ★★ 1/2
Dame de Boüard 2018, Montagne Saint-Émilion ($40 – 14,798,789).This “satellite” presents a dominant Merlot with fleshy and well-nourished fruitiness on a floral ensemble, a touch of animal, of beautiful fabric. The grilled rib steak celebrating the first BBQ of spring has arrived! (5) © ★★★
Loudenne Le Château 2009, cru bourgeois, Médoc ($49.50 – 14805643). The famous “pink castle” which looks the estuary straight in the eye touches the heart here with its rich, opulent and highly aromatic sap in this vintage blessed by the gods.
Abundant and coated tannins, generous fruit, very ripe and long homogeneous finish. Ready to drink, on nice slices of leg of lamb for example. (5) © ★★★ 1/2