On the singularity of the terroir, everyone will recognize that the commune of Chablis does not give its place. Here, the limestone “octopus” extends its arms and tentacles in soils dating from the Jurassic period, from a “chalky Kimmeridgian” center to the “Portlandian massifs”, passing through “clay limestone marls. ”And other“ Oxfordian massifs ”. But this is only the visible tip of an iceberg whose underlying soil mosaic and high altitude exposures further confuse the tracks, “pulsing” the minerality of the great local Chardonnay to levels unmatched anywhere in the world. Seize the maddening subtlety of the 5,140 hectares of this Burgundian appellation declined in Petit Chablis (884 ha), Chablis (3,367 ha), 1er Cru (783 ha for 40 1ers crus) and Grand Cru (106 ha for 7 grands crus) would take a lifetime by itself. Samples provided by Sopexa Canada allow us not to wait and live it all hic et nunc. Please note, the quantities available are very variable.
Petit Chablis 2020, Domaine Louis Moreau ($ 24.15 – 11035479). Young vines on sand for a light, perky, vibrant, bursting with flavor. (5) ★★ 1/2
Petit Chablis Les Ammonites 2020, François Martenot ($ 22.10 – 14168411). Less festive than the previous one, but more framed in its minerality. At this price, the character of a windfall, with all the salinity associated with it. (5) © ★★★
Chablis 2020, Domaine Alexandre ($ 23.75 – 13615160). Clear fruitiness on the apple, very dry and lively, in the absence of a more rooted terroir imprint. (5) êê 1/2
Chablis 2018, Domaine Besson ($ 27.20 – 13479233).Classic, with this breadcrumb character and this volume in the mouth conferred by working on fine lees. (5) © ★★★
Chablis 2018, Domaine Pattes Loup ($ 48.25 – 12610789). Thomas Pico is a rising star of the appellation. There is sap, energy, density, mastery and depth here. Old vines, a late setting, an organic wine that goes beyond the limits of its appellation. Worth the price. (5+) © ★★★★
Chablis reserve De Montaigu 2019, J. Moreau & fils ($ 25.10 – 14043474). Nice profile, lively, clean and engaging, but a little bit rushing in the mid-palate. (5) ★★
Chablis Premier cru Montée de Tonnerre 2010, Château de Maligny (nd – the 2019 sells for $ 37.25 – 895110). Taken from the reporter’s cellar, this premier cru culminates in beauty after a decade. The age limit at this level. Open nose of cut hay, lime blossom, fresh button mushroom; Ditto on the palate, with a fine, lively, long honey note. ★★★ 1/2
Chablis Premier cru Vosgros 2019, Domaine Gueguen ($ 39.50 – 13943059). This premier cru is currently closing in on itself. Nothing austere. But this cru located on the left bank of the Serein, to the south, to the west of the town of Chiché, is promising. THE’exogyra virgula is manifested there by its mineral suggestion. (5+) © ★★★ 1/2
Chablis Premier cru Fourchaume 2018, Domaine d’Henri ($ 41.75 – 13820737). Family property of the Laroche family, this cuvée shines with its chiseled expression, its elegance, its subtlety and its great overall finesse. A jewel of good citizenship for a very Chablaisian wine spirit. (5+) © ★★★★
Chablis Premier cru Fourchaume Vieilles Vignes 2018, Domaine Laroche ($ 42.50 – 13178490). Unrelated to the previous one, another style, more generous with a more refined oak. A lactic tip on the nose, good volume and density, all the same long and racy. (5+) © ★★★ 1/2
Chablis Grand cru Les Clos 2018, Athénaïs de Béru ($ 146.50 – 14815201). Another rising value of the appellation, Athénaïs de Béru takes us elsewhere with the largest area of GC (26 ha). Captivating, but also confusing, with this touch of volatile which revives dense and original flavors of quince, ginger and pear brandy, all supporting an incredible dynamic in the mouth. Would we recognize this vintage blindly? The artist’s signature captivates him for the moment. (5+) ★★★★
Chablis Grand cru Les Clos 2018, Louis Jadot ($ 119 – 14714418).We can feel here the patina of the famous Côte d’Or merchant with this immense cuvée, but integrated, ample and adjusted under its suggested woodiness, its deep, textured, complex suite, with a taste of praline butter. Race. Too early to appreciate all its majesty. (10+) © ★★★★